Just swing it!
FROM NORTHERN THAILAND TO THE BUSTLING CITIES OF KRABI AND BANGKOK, THE ADVENTURE NEVER STOPS
“WELCOME aboard AirAsia flight FD3201 bound for Chiang Rai, ladies and gentlemen,” a lovely flight attendant in red makes an announcement to greet passengers departing from Suvarnabhumi Airport, Bangkok.
It’s a bit nerve-racking, not because I’m afraid of flying, but mainly because I’m on a trip with 16 journalists from nine Asean countries — Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam, Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, the Philippines and Brunei.
All of us are invited to attend the Asean Travel Journo Camp organised by Thai Journalists Associations in cooperation with Thai AirAsia, and we’re about to embark on a nine-day journey across Thailand together.
We will be visiting a number of Thailand’s popular attractions as well as some rare destinations in the northern, southern and central region.
Will we be able to connect with each other? Will there be any language barrier? All these questions keep popping in my head.
CHARM OF AKHA
I’m thrilled that the group will be kicking off the journey from the northern region. I have never been to that part of the country.
Northern Thailand isn’t as popular as the southern and central region, especially among Malaysians, who prefer beaches and cities for a holiday destination.
This will be an eye-opening adventure for me, to head for the road less taken, and prove that the northern region too is an enchanting destination for a serene getaway.
We start at the northernmost part of Thailand, Chiang Rai, also known as the Gate of the Golden Triangle where Thailand, Myanmar and Laos borders meet.
Due to its mountainous terrain and remotely distance from major urban centres, the area was ideal for illicit opium produce and smuggling in the old days.
In fact, many hill tribes surrounding the areas used to produce opium as their main source of income, and this included one of the villages we will be visiting, Pha Mee village.
Located in Mae Sai district, about 1 ½ hours away from the city centre Pha Mee is home to the Akha, an indigenous hill tribe originating from Southern China.
Our arrival at Pha Mee Coffee, a quaint hill-side cafe, is merrily welcomed by the tribe with a classical performance accompanied by traditional music instruments. They wear pretty, colourful traditional clothing and their headpieces have dangling silver pieces said to weigh 5kg!
On the second floor of the rustic al fresco cafe, I feast my eyes on the stunning highland view — green and majestic, with a bright sky — which is serene and peaceful.
“This village is named after that majestic hill, which resembles a bear. Pha Mee literally means Bear Mountains,” says Bow Pongnin, our translator and also a representative from Local Alike, a social enterprise specialising in communitybased tourism.
Unlike the typical tour, Local Alike gets local residents involved while emphasising community development, taking into account the environmental, social and cultural sustainability.
According to local chief Paluang, 54, the village was founded in 1932. It used to grow opium poppies but during a visit by the late King Rama IX to the rural area in the 70s, he introduced the Arabica bean which has helped to turn community life around for the better.
Today, the community continues to grow coffee as the main agriculture product as well as other produce including macadamia, lychee and orange.
This peaceful village is an undiscovered gem. Local Alike will promote the destination together with the villagers, by developing community-based programmes.
“The Pha Mee community programme is still developing. We have worked together with Thai AirAsia through the Journey D programme to build up a tour plan, improve service as well as teach the locals basic English,” says Bow.
Our programme includes viewing the step-by-step coffee production from seed sorting, traditional roasting in a clay cauldron on a charcoal firepit, grinding the beans and brewing using bamboo coffee filter. Of course, we get to taste a cuppa!
We also get to see the local way of life here. Residents make handicraft such as cotton-weaving. We watch a demonstration and try to make cotton strings.
An elderly native has been weaving for the past 68 years. It’s a skill passed on from generation to generation and she learnt from her mother at age of 15. During the old days, every household makes traditional clothing from scratch but the skill may be lost as many of the younger generations move to the city.
Next, we visit the Akha giant swing. To go there, we hop on a truck which takes us further up to the higher grounds of the village.
There, we arrive at a picturesque location. Up on a hill slope, there’s a wooden swing, made of a long log, two tyres hanging at the top and a rope hanging down.
We first have to go underneath a big arch for good luck. “Just walk ahead and don’t look back,” says Bow, explaining that the locals believe that looking back brings bad luck.
I’m terrified. Imagine, sitting on the plank of wood, with no safety features, swinging back and forth on the hill slope. But I’m not going to miss out on this.
I tell myself to be brave. Excitedly (and nervously), I slide on the hanging plank, rope in between my thighs, and clutch it tightly.
Two Akha men pull the seat while another man pull the rope on the side, controlling the movement of the swing.
Swoosh goes the swing, swaying high. The view is breathtaking. For a while, I forget my fear of heights and enjoy the mountain backdrop.
The swing may be a fun for tourists but it is actually a village tradition and is considered sacred. For the Akha men, they have to swing as high as they can go while standing to prove their bravery and masculinity.
EXOTIC CHIANG RAI
While in Chiang Rai, one must not miss a visit to the most popular attraction, the Wat Rong Khun, better known as the White Temple. Not too far from city, the temple is a must especially for those who want to do the typical tourist tour.
Upon our arrival, the temple is crowded with visitors. There’s a high chance of getting photobombed but our good-looking guide, Phanupan Panpeng, shows us a few good angles where we can get an Insta-worthy snap!
The temple has bizarre characteristics, making it stand out from other temples.
First of all, it’s all white. What’s more, the design is very modern. I really love how the glass roof sparkles under the glistening sun. The glass symbolises Buddha’s wisdom while white signifies his purity.
The temple is a masterpiece by wellknown Thailand visual artist Chaloemchai Kositpipat. The construction of the whole complex is still in progress.
Visitors are allowed to enter the main temple, known as the Ubosot. Access must be from the front where we have to cross a narrow bridge that passes over a pool of beseeching hands representing suffering souls in hell.
“If you look closely, from the many hands, there is only one female hand with red manicured nails which is to depict that there are more men in hell than women,” says Phanupan. Indeed, the detailing of every sculpture is intricate.
Inside the Ubosot, the symthe bol of heaven, you’ll be awed by stunning mural by the artists. They have painted icons from modern culture, such as spaceships, Superman and buildings around the world.
ROAD TO CHIANG MAI
Next stop is the most popular city in the northern part of Thailand, Chiang Mai.
Located four hours away from Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai is the largest city in the north.
Founded in 1296, Chiang Mai means “New City”, because it became the new capital of Lan Na Kingdom, succeeding Chiang Rai which is the former capital.
Since Chiang Mai is not too far from Chi-
ang Rai (and there is no flight), the organiser has planned a road trip.
It is a long drive, so we’ll get the chance to see the countryside. Along the way, I spot a few villages, rice fields and untouched jungle.
When we finally reach Chiang Mai, we visit one must-see temple,Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.
The temple is located on the top of Mount Suthep, and we go on a 25-minute ride up a winding road to the main entrance.
But the temple complex is located on a higher peak, so visitors have the choice to walk up 300 steps or go on a cable car to the top. Of course, we take the latter!
The area is filled with local and foreign visitors and so the queue to go on the cable car is quite long. Surprisingly, within 15 minutes, it is already my turn to enter the small cubicle that will take us to the top. There are about 20 people cramped in one space, but don’t worry, the cubicle is air-conditioned and there are glass windows so you won’t feelcramped. Plus, it’s just a short ride.
At the top, we have two hours to explore the huge temple complex on our own. I walk closely with one of our Thai hosts, Sathapat Phaethong, who is a funny international news reporter and our guide. He speaks fluent English and is articulate in Bahasa Indonesia too. We call him by his cute nickname, Ball.
Ball shows us around the temple complex and briefs us on the background and history. The Buddhist monastery was founded in1383. At one corner, there’s a huge White Elephant shrine. Legend has it that the auspicious white elephant carried a Buddha relic to the top of Doi Suthep, where it stopped at one point, trumpeted three times and died there. King Nu Naone immediately ordered construction of a temple at the site.
Inside the temple, you’ll see a giant golden spire in the centre, where the relic is kept. The area is teeming with tourists taking pictures and Buddhists praying.
After exploring the temple, I head to the viewing platform where visitors get to see the panaromic city view. From up here, I can spot the busy Chiang Mai airport with planes landing and taking off the runway.
The tour ends with a walk down the steps flanked by two gigantic dragons guarding the temple.
HEARTOFKRABI
The following day, we’re off to Chiang Mai airport to fly to the next destination in the southern part of Thailand, one of the most top tourists spots, Krabi.
We take the earliest flight, departing at 6.35am and arriving two hours later.
Upon arrival, we are transferred to Chao Fah Park Pierat Krabi Town. There to welcome us to Krabi is Bow and her team from Local Alike.
“We meet again. Today, we will be visiting my second hometown, an island unknown to many, Koh Klang,” says Bow.
Koh Klang is a charming Muslim fisherman village on a 26-sq-km island on the mouth of Krabi river. The island is nestled along secluded mangroves and faces the Andaman sea in the south.
It is populated by 5,000 residents who are 90 per cent Muslim with the rest being Buddhists. Their main income is fishing but they also farm.
“There are no dogs here and pork is not allowed on the island. Visitors are advised to dress modestly,”says Bow.
There are no cars on the island, only motorcycles, and visitors can explore by going on a three-seater tuktuk.
Koh Klang is also one of the few communities supported by the Journey D project by Thai AirAsia together with Local Alike.
Similar to Pha Mee village, here at Koh Klang, the villagers are taught to improve their tour programmes, sharpen their English communication skills as well as enhance the quality of hospitality services.
To go there, we have to traverse Krabi river and also a stretch of mangroves on a Hua Thong (long-tail boat). Well, it takes less than 10 minutes to Koh Klang but we go on a short cruise where we get to see some breathtaking views along the river and canal including some of Krabi’s scenic limestone terrain.
Reaching Koh Klang, the first thing I see is a row of wooden stilted homes and restaurants along Krabi river. We stop at one of the riverside restaurants, Baan Ma Yhing, where our arrival is welcomed with sweet coconut drinks and a delicious spicy halal seafood lunch. The seafood is extremely fresh and portions are big.
A few activities are lined up for us and one of it is rice farming! The rice field is located in the centre of the island.
To go there, we rent a number of colourful tuktuks. The road on the island is narrow, and residents are all smiles, waving at us as our tuktuk passes by their homes.
Here in Koh Klang, harvest season starts in January but we are lucky that we come during the planting season.
The villagers grow organic Sangyod rice, brownrice planted in a mix of fresh and saltwater. We are told that here is the only place it’s grown.
Planting paddy is really fun. We are soaked up to our knees in the muddy field and each of us is given paddy grains which we plant bit by bit, deep in the mud.
We also get the chance to see the rice production after the rice is harvested. There is a modern rice processing machine on the island but we also get to see and experience the traditional way of doing it by using a traditional mortar, pestle and winnow.
We also learn the art of making of the Hua Thong boat (the model-size version), and stay in a homestay. This is one of the best part of my time here in Koh Klang, as I get to know my Asean friends.
We stay at Kidthung Cottage, owned by a Muslim couple, Paramatta Chuykarn, 36, and his wife Suthida Prapertchob, 31 (also known as Matt and Muna). Thai names are really pretty but really hard to pronounce. On the bright side, they have simple cute nick names that are easy to remember.
Matt and Muna met through Matt’s sister and he asked for her hand in marriage three days after their first meeting. In fact, they did not even go on a date together before their marriage!
After marriage,they lived in the city for four years. Matt was an architect, while Muna runs a bakery. But, they weren’t happy as their heart longs for Koh Klang.
So, they moved back to their roots and opened a homestay business a year ago. They named it “Kidthung Cottage” which means “miss you”, where we stay for a night.
Their two-storey home is quaint and lovely, made of wood and concrete, with a big garden. The inside is very clean and homely, equipped witha kitchen.
There are three air-conditioned rooms that can comfortably fit 12 guests - one room with a queen bed, one room with one queen bed plus one double-decker bed, and another one with three doubledecker beds. But, there are comfy mattress for groups of 20 people.
The bathroom is communal — one is inside, the other is outside, but both are very clean.
Upon check-in at Kidthung Cottage, we are served with a sweet Anchan drink made of butterfly pea flower with a squeeze of lime juice, a local drink served only in Thailand. We learn to make Khao Yam, a local rice salad.
Here at Kidthung, we can enjoy each other’s company playing board games and just hang out at the patio, listening to the sound of the crickets while watching the twinkling stars. Totally serene!
EXPLORE BANGKOK
The last destination before we head home is Bangkok, the capital and most populated city in Thailand, where the traffic is notoriously crazy especially during peak hours.
Since I’ve already been to Bangkok, I am not looking forward to it much but a visit to the Golden Mount surprises me. Also known as Phu Khao Thong, it is where the ancient temple of Wat Saket is located.
The temple dates back to the Ayutthaya Period and was built in the reign of King Rama IV, but completed in the early reign of his son King Rama V. It is 77m tall. At the top reside many of Buddhist relics from Sri Lanka.
It is quite a popular destination, mainly because when you complete hiking the stairs up to the top, you’ll be surprised with a spectacular view of Bangkok.
Also another hot spot, which is in my favourite in Bangkok, is Asiatique, the Riverfront. It is quite a popular place to chill out especially in the evening when it lights up. The place is a large open-air mall in the former docks of the East Asiatic Company, facing Chao Phraya River.
We are lucky to dine at Joe Louis Restaurant which serves Thai food, and watch an enchanted puppet performances, a unique play where three dancers control one puppet.