ARE WE LOSING THE SOUNDS, SMELLS OF HAWKER STALLS?
As the nation advances, street food is being replaced with a safer, cleaner but blander version of itself
HOT oil sizzling in huge woks, kailan and bean sprout tossed in the air, cleavers slicing through chicken thighs, beef cubes chopped up on massive wooden boards.
Satay sticks piled up behind Plexiglas partitions, deep-fried fish balls on display. Welcome to Malaysia’s street food heaven.
Malaysia’s big cities feature restaurants from every corner of the world. Upmarket hotels thrive on culinary niche experiences, ranging from lavish Sunday brunch to al fresco rooftop dining, and everything in between. Kuala Lumpur’s inhabitants are truly spoilt for choice.
Yet, what sets Malaysia apart is neither the oyster bar on the “30somethingest” floor of a hightech glass tower. There’s probably one in Bangkok, too.
Nor is it the tiny tapas served on a stylishly bare terrace somewhere high above the city lights. Singapore must have these by the dozen.
As appealing as these dining options could be, they are quite generic. We could be dining in Dubai, Tokyo or New York, and we would be none the wiser.
What makes Malaysia one of the world’s top destinations for foodies is the local take on fast food. Not the kind advertised by golden arches or the bright smile of some bearded colonel; far from it.
Instead, locals and foreigners alike, families, backpackers, retired couples and wide-eyed visitors all enjoy grabbing a quick bite on the go, or sitting down in small plastic chairs on local street corners.
Pop-up hawker stalls enable the big cities’ considerable workforce to grab a quick, affordable and satisfying meal for lunch every day.
Come dinner time, mamak stalls situated in the middle of the hustle and bustle of a pasar malam offer unique dishes that are as traditional as they are inexpensive to folks on their way home, as well as to tourists, who dare to try unknown delicacies.
Colourful melamine plates, neon green chopsticks, rice wrapped in banana leaves and teh tarik in plastic bags, with a straw sticking out on one side, joyfully blend with garlands of tiny light bulbs strung across the street. Branded parasols for makeshift sun or rain protection serve as demarcation of each vendor’s territory.
The savvy patron knows which stall serves choice grilled ikan or ayam, and where to best order char kway teow.
Over the years, many of these picturesque eateries and hawker centres have vanished to make way for modern infrastructure.
The old seafood village had to yield to the shopping complex of Bangsar Village II and its many clean and efficient café and restaurant franchises.
Many won’t even remember the old food bazaar in Desa Sri Hartamas, a vibrant collection of foods and drinks, a karaoke corner, a moneychanger and a small (probably illegal) betting office.
Sure, there are just as many food outlets in these locations today as there were in bygone times. But the uniqueness of the sounds and smells is gone.
The distinctiveness of each cook’s special recipe is irreplaceable. The little old ladies’ grumbling at the uninitiated’s inability to understand the concept of prepaying for food, but not for drinks, is lost forever.
Admittedly, hawker stalls don’t always adhere to the most stringent hygiene concepts. Undoubtedly, some ingredients are not perfectly refrigerated.
Indeed, dishes hastily washed in a bucket of soapy water by the roadside could be a bit of a health hazard.
The dirty water spilled out into the gutter is a mess and the battered propane gas cylinders feeding the stir-fry stations don’t inspire much confidence.
But then again, how many of these stalls have been blown to bits in the past?
How many cases of wide-range food poisoning has the local press uncovered?
Not more than any we hear of in newer, more regulated venues. It is perfectly understandable that the government works towards cleaning up the local streets.
As cities grow and the nation moves towards high-income status by 2020, concessions have to be made and new legislation needs to be implemented.
Hawker stalls shall operate in designated areas only and need to be upgraded to food trucks. Messy cooking and cleaning up will have to happen elsewhere.
Roadside traffic will run more efficiently, street corners will be safer for pedestrians.
While modernisation can’t and shouldn’t be halted, it will come at a cost. Lucky are those among us who experienced the old, the true and traditional Malaysian street food venues.
While modern cities all over the world try to reintroduce a semblance of the old feeling by organising street food festivals, Malaysia is doing away with the real thing, replacing it with a safer, cleaner, but blander version of itself.
Soon, the heart and soul of Malaysia’s staple street food will be lost, locked away in history books and sepia-tinted photo series. The sounds, the smell, the lights and the authenticity will be missed.
Soon, the heart and soul of Malaysia’s staple street food will be lost, locked away in history books and sepiatinted photo series. The sounds, the smell, the lights and the authenticity will be missed.