New Straits Times

Sunset dining

On Pangkor Island, the ambience and wide selection of food at a seaside restaurant entice Ewe Paik Leong to return one day

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THE ocean breeze kisses my face when I step out of a jalopy, sweeping stress away. When I start to amble on the sand, I am pleasantly jolted as I feel like I’m walking on a carpet of candy floss!Such is the softness of the sands.

A waitress from Daddy’s Cafe leads my family and I to a pavilion far from a string of bulbs. I am a touch disappoint­ed because it’s dim here. The waiter also abruptly goes away.

Looking around, I see a full house since it’s a public holiday and my expectatio­n of quick service flows away with the ebbing tide.

In the distance, the sky and the sea are stitched into a single grey line. After a long time, the menus arrive and we switch on the flashlight­s in our mobile phones to read.

The selections, without photos, are many and are divided into appetiser and salad, lunch entrèe, dinner entrèe, soup, local specialtie­s, dessert and beverages.

The offerings cover Western food (lamb chop, black pepper steak, pizza, tortilla, etc);Malay goodies

Indian fare (pita bread, fish head curry, dahl vegetable curry, vegetarian fried rice); and Thai staples (seafood tom yam).

The names of some dishes catch my attention.”Fire twister” is grilled mackerel in spicy sauce with rice and crackers; “monkey love”, fish fillet in sweet and sour sauce with pineapple and veggies.

After another long wait, a carnival of scents heralds the arrival of our orders.

The mutton curry embraces gutsy flavours. The mushroom soup needs stronger seasoning. First, I snap a piece of garlic bread into two and dredge one half through my mushroom soup. The milky-flavoured soup is pleasant but not terrific. Heaviersea­soning will rectify this fault.

My plate of skin-less chicken pieces comes with carrots, cabbages and long beans, and a puddle of barbecue sauce. The chicken meat is dense but the barbecue sauce lifts it a notch above the ordinary. The veggies play their part well in providing textural contrast.

Next, I eat as much of my daughter’s chicken chop as she allows me to. The soft fibrous texture has a tinge of saltiness that tangos well with a deep and robust garlicky flavour.

A lingering powerful finish from the barbecue sauce makes this a delicious dish.Crisp fries act as a perfect counterpoi­nt to the tart red cabbage.

I now try my wife’s gremolata chicken. Under the dim light, I don’t scrutinise what I’ve carved with my fork and spoon but pop the morsel straight into my mouth. A zap of tang from lemon, a caress of aromatics from parsley and a

Garlic bread is almost greaseless.

gentle punch from pungent garlicwork in harmony.

Since the chicken dishes merely pass muster, I order mutton curry with rice. It arrives in a clay pot brimming with aromatic coriander and fresh red chillies. The mutton and spices are on excellent nodding terms with the perfectly cooked rice.

Meal over, I quaff my fruit punch, declare my love for this place and air-kiss the setting sun, and vow to return-but not on a public holiday.

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