Get fresh
When it comes to Japanese cuisine, freshness is of the essence, writes Tan Bee Hong
MY fascination for Japanese food is an on-going affair, not only with the taste of the food but the presentation, which is also a feast for the eyes. Hokkaido Ichiba at The Gardens Mall proves no less satisfying.
Kita no Zen (restaurant) occupies most of the floorspace with Hokkaido Ice Cream and Japanese food specialty store Shojikiya at the sides. The ambience is calm and soothing.
Our table next to the tall glass windows offers us a lovely view of the surroundings. Yet, our eyes are drawn to the food on the table.
RAW DEALS
Despite its name (Ichiba means market in Japanese), there’s nothing marketplace about the prices at Hokkaido Ichiba which is why I’m a little taken aback when handed a tatty menu that’s well-thumbed all around. Drinks and desserts are listed in separate menus and these look pristine.
But there’s nothing tatty about the food. The sashimi is super fresh. Iso platter (RM90) has six types of sashimi: Toro, kanpachi, salmon, amaebi, hotate and ikura (salmon roe).
The toro was spectacular (yum, yum and yum again), melting in the mouth with little effort and the amaebi is sweet on the tastebuds. Ditto the ikura which leaves our tongues afloat on the salty seas.
There are various other platters as well as trays of uni (sea urchin), whole abalone and choice single-item sashimi such as fatty belly tuna, scallops and amberjack.
Sushi is also available in different styles. Single portions are from RM2 for inari (sweet beancurd) and RM3 for tamago to RM4 for salmon and RM13 for maguro otoro (tuna fatty belly).
There’s also sushi don (served in a bowl of vinegared rice) and oshizushi (pressed sushi).
The Unagi Oshizushi or grilled eel (RM35) takes a little longer to arrive but it’s well worth the 30-minute wait to taste the rich, creamy flesh of eel combined with the sweet soya-based basting marinade.
My Best Friend’s Dragon Roll (RM38) (No pork served)
Lot T-201, 3rd Floor
The Gardens Mall
Lingkaran Syed Putra, Kuala Lumpur
03-2283 1060
feedback@superdining. com.my
www.superdining.com. my/hokkaido_gardens.php 10am - 10pm Daily Japanese cuisine
Sashimi and bento boxes From RM10 to RM200
Calm with a sense of zen
Helpful
Go give it a try has a whole tempura king prawn rolled in rice, blanketed with slivers of avocado and topped with tobiko (flying fish roe). A delicious contrast in textures of soft avocado, crispy prawn and popping tobiko.
COOKED AND SET
Rokkaku Bento (RM78) is great value for money. Besides two lacquered boxes filled with food, there are sides of miso soup, chawanmushi, salad and cut fruit (dessert).
It’s a good choice especially if you want variety, including sushi and tempura. I do enjoy a good chawanmushi and the cup of steamed custard egg is silky soft.
Scoop a spoonful into your mouth and it releases the aromas of the ingredients such as fish cake, ginkgo, chicken
and shitake.
One box holds tempura prawns, pumpkin and eggplant, skewers of chicken, scallop and mushroom and chirashi sushi (slivers of salmon and squid on vinegared rice).
The second box holds sunomano (scallop and prawn on vinegared cucumber), nimono (simmered tofu) and grilled salmon. The salmon is a total disaster — overcooked and hard.
To the chef’s credit, he offers to replace the fish but there’s so much food on the table that I have lost interest by this time.
I find the Shishamo (RM10/3pc) or grilled pregnant fish could be a bit more crispy but the pouch of eggs tastes amazing still.
For something more affordable, have noodles or rice dishes. Chicken Katsu Don (RM23) is a complete meal in a bowl and satisfying too.
The battered and deepfried chicken thigh is crisp around the edges. The bowl of rice is topped with sliced shitake mushrooms, sliced onions and a fried egg. A sprinkle of seaweed adds more flavour.
ICY TREAT
We are full, yet the desserts are irresistible. We settle for Choco Banana Crepe (RM10.80). The crepe is disappointingly tough and floury but the chocolate ice cream and chunks of banana, topped with chopped almonds and chocolate drops, send us home in sweet bliss.