Cleopatra of M alaysia

Visits Tun Teja’s tomb, the ornate Galeri Demang Abdul Ghani and a Portuguese well in Merlimau, Melaka

Tun Teja’s tomb lies in a lush rice field.

WGaleri Demang Abdul Ghani stands on concrete stilts. HAT tourist attractions does Merlimau, 20km south of Melaka city, have? Answer: The tomb of Malaysia’s Cleopatra, Galeri Demang Abdul Ghani and an old Portuguese well. PRINCESS’ TOMB

I drive past picturesque villages southward from Melaka City to visit these attractions.

I pull over to the road shoulder when I see a sign that says Makam Tun Teja.

After walking under a whitewashed concrete arch, I proceed down a narrow paved walkway to a fenced rectangular area. All around me stretch swatches of rice fields, irrigation canals and scarecrows fluttering in the wind.

Tun Teja’s tomb, measuring about 4.5m by 1.5m and painted in white, lies in the centre of the fenced area. As I walk around the tomb, I come to realise that this is a final resting place but a memoir for the living — her tragic story still survives today.

Nearby is an old well covered with a metal grille to prevent anyone from falling in, and information plaques tell a powerful story about this exceptional woman, who was dubbed, in ancient times, as the “Jewel of Bengal” and more recently, as “Malaysia’s Cleopatra”.

Tun Teja was the daughter of Seri Amar Di Raja, the Raja Bendahara of Pahang

The Tiang Seri is believed to have protective powers over the occupants of the house; A steep staircase leads to the loft; An exquisitely carved bureau in the Rumah Ibu.

Inderaputera, then a vassal state of the Melaka Empire.

(Malay Annals) give different versions of how she was taken to Melaka and married off to Sultan Mahmud Shah. However, in her role as the Sultan’s consort, she was loved and respected by the people.

In 1511, when the Portuguese attacked Melaka, Sultan Mamud planned to flee to Muar with Tun Teja, who had taken ill. After a strenuous trek through the jungle, the Sultan’s party rested at a spot which is present-day Merlimau and the exhausted Tun Teja died. As Muar was still four or five days’ journey away on foot, and fearing for the

decomposition of the body, it was decided to bury Tun Teja here.

HEADMAN’S HOUSE

Onward to my next destination: Galeri Demang Abdul Ghani. I stride through the open gateway, cross a short stretch of lawn to a concrete staircase adorned with colourful tiles displaying flower motifs.

I recall having read from the Internet that, in olden days, there were two water ponds at both sides of the staircases for visitors to wash their feet but now, they have been filled up and planted with ferns. Standing next to them, surprisingly, are two stone orange-coloured pineapples (used by

Chinese as symbols of prosperity) resting on pedestals.

I slip off my shoes and climb the steps to the porch which is supported by two thick square pillars. They are finished with tiles with red floral motifs and stylised leaves in arabesque style.

These are in turn enclosed in blue-andmaroon geometric designs. On my left and right, the top rails of the side balustrades are tiled. Instead of balusters, there are rectangular ventilation openings adorned with carved decorations.

As I push open the entrance twin gates to enter the huge verandah, my eyes open wide in surprise. Perched on the top rails