Exquisite French brunch
French cuisine. Champagne. DJ beats. It all adds up to a fun and delicious afternoon, writes Tan Bee Hong
TICK off the first Sunday of the month on your calendar. That’s when Lafite opens its doors for its latest in dining concept, Beats & Brunch. There’s free flow of champagne and wine, as well as cocktails from the Belvedere Spritz collection.
I can’t think of a better way to indulge in a Sunday afternoon. While a deejay spins the beats, customers start off with a glass of bubbly. In my case, I am seduced by a flute of crisp Moet & Chandon with the clear colour of golden straw.
ECLECTIC SELECTIONS
Then we check out the island counter with its huge display of freshly shucked Cadoret oysters. On one side, there are six varieties of eclairs, including chocolate, hazelnut and pistachio, while on the other side, a selection of house-made bread and a cheese platter with a variety of fruits is spread out.
We spot pastry chef Paul Gardin busy preparing scrambled eggs a la minute with chopped smoked salmon, topped with a buckwheat emulsion.
This is a great start to the meal. Light and full of flavour, it slowly awakens the tastebuds for what’s to come next, the Appetiser Platter. There’s enough food on the platter to make a whole meal for a light eater. We begin with pea soup, cherry tomato shooter, a teaspoonful of black caviar and brioche with foie gras stuffed in a slice of poached apple. Then there’s half a lobster, crumb-crusted and thermidored.
Shangri-La Hotel Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, 50250 Kuala Lumpur
03-2074 3900
restaurantreservations. slkl@shangri-la.com
Noon to 3pm on every first Sunday; noon to 5pm on Jan 1
Fine French cuisine Grilled Octopus, Eggs Parfait, French Rum Baba
RM499 nett and RM599 (Jan 1) inclusive of free flow champagne/wine and “all you can eat” menu
Upbeat classy indulgence
Impeccable and deferential
Must try THE MAINS
For the mains, customers order from an eight-course menu which includes two dessert dishes. The menu is designed by executive chef Olivier Pistrie, who has been showcasing his culinary skills in Michelinstarred restaurants from France to Monaco and Istanbul.
I ask for Seared Hokkaido Scallops. There’s just one scallop, solitary but big and fleshy. For this I am thankful but more of that later.
The scallop is just lightly seared, topped with a zucchini bud. Harvested from the cold waters in northern Japan, the scallop is sweet and juicy. Perfect. It’s served with artichoke veloute and a creamy barigoule sauce.
The single scallop means I have ample tummy space to try out a few other items on the menu. All servings are small as customers are encouraged to order and try as many dishes as they can. Apart from Smoked Cohiba Grilled Wagyu Beef, there’s a gorgeous, tender Lamb Shoulder With Parmesan Gnocchi and softly cooked red onion marmalade with banana but I find the panseared Atlantic Cabillaud (cod) far too overcooked for my liking.
Eggs Parfait Cooked At 63 degrees Celsius may not sound like much but if you
LIFE & TIMES BY NEW STRAITS TIMES | love eggs, don’t give this a miss. Shimmering and wobbly, this perfectly cooked egg, with a soft, translucent white and creamy yolk, elevates the humble egg to gourmet heaven.
Still, my favourite item on the menu has to be Grilled Octopus, served with corn cream, Japanese black garlic and Provencal sauce vierge. The portion of octopus tentacle is extremely tender with a pleasing light, mild flavour that dances a quick foxtrot with the hot corn cream and chopped garlic. Yet, there is enough of a chewy texture to keep the chompers satisfied.
SWEET ENDING
For dessert, there are the various eclairs on display. But do check out the scrumptious French Rum Baba with its citrusy hints and the Chocolate Surprise, a chocolate sphere sitting on vanilla ice cream; it melts when hot sauce is poured over it and there are lovely fresh berries and Sable Breton Crumble inside too.
Seared Hokkaido Scallop; Appetiser Platter with pea soup, cherry tomato shooter, caviar, brioche, foie gras and half a lobster. French Rum Baba.