Dining with the demon chef

Inspired by the local flavours of Malaysia and Hong Kong, three-Michelin star chef Alvin Leung concocts the unexpected from some familiar local delights, writes

I’VE watched all four seasons of and never once have I ever dreamt of sharing a space with one of the judges, the one known by the startling moniker of the Demon Chef, a.k.a Chef Alvin Leung. With that streak of blue-dyed hair and his sharp hip look, he certainly strikes a formidable figure.

It’s hardly surprising then that when I did get the chance to have an audience with this maverick chef on his recent flying visit to Kuala Lumpur, I had butterflies raging — not fluttering — in my tummy. Nervously, I start to throw some names of popular

alumni simply to break the ice. But it’s not needed after all. In the end, Leung is more interested to turn our chat to the subject of street food culture in Malaysia — the very reason why he’s in this part of the world.

The dynamic chef had taken some time off from the on-going production of the show to fly into town from Canada just for a night to present a specially curated menu for a special event hosted by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) recently.

Leung shares that the inspiration behind the menu celebrates the common links between Malaysia and Hong Kong. “The economic ties are very important and well-linked, but culturally, we also have so much in common. The use of dried seafood, spices and method of cooking are similar. Through these similarities and differences, I try to blend in the flavours and techniques into my dishes,” he begins.

SEEING IS BELIEVING

With all the hype surrounding our nasi lemak, the latest one being our national costume for the recent Miss Universe pageant, it’s no surprise to see this national favourite make an appearance in Leung’s menu. Inspired by nasi lemak, the 56-yearold chef presented a starter dish served in a 4-inch brass-patinaed canister atop a black slate.

Suffice to say, it’s exquisitely presented. One look, two sniffs, three chin-rubs, four photos and five seconds later, I empty the canister. But where’s the rice? I couldn’t help muttering. “I was inspired by the flavours of the nasi lemak and created these white coconut-milk infused ‘caviars’ that represent the rice in this signature Malaysian dish. Spiced anchovies, spring onion and pine nuts are used to garnish the dish and add textures,” explains Leung.

The surprise element — like in most of Leung’s creations — lies at the bottom of the canister. Covered by the milky white “rice pearls”, a spiced tuna tartare ties the whole dish together. The crunch from the anchovies, the subtle fragrance of coconut milk from the “caviars” and the spicy tartare akin to the mandatory sambal, come together in a burst of flavours that we Malaysians have grown to love.

“In order to create surprises, you must understand what the dish is without the surprise. Before I create the special ‘wow’ element, I have to revisit every component to make sure I get the authentic DNA right. That is the basic foundation when I want to create a new dish. Then you play around with the dressing and ‘cosmetics’ for the external aesthetics,” says Leung, emphasising on the importance of firstly, eating with our eyes.

GASTRONOMIC ENGINEER

Like the stories of many great chefs, Leung’s is also no less intriguing. In between his recollections and anecdotes, he shares: “I’ve always been interested in food but I studied engineering due to filial responsibilities. My family runs an engineering company and as the eldest son, I was expected to continue the tradition. But I’ve always enjoyed cooking.”

Eventually, the opportunity came for him to enter the culinary world. “A good Innovative dessert. Chef Leung redefines the Malaysian Laksa.