Tantalising bait

Chef Logan Lopez offers the freshest seafood in creative ways, writes Tan Bee Hong

Addictive Garlic Melba Toast is crispy and addictive.

BAIT’S newest outlet at Intermark Mall has whitewashed walls and lamps hanging from the ceiling, which give it an air of understated elegance while appetising aromas drift over from the open kitchen.

SMALL NIBBLES

Appetisers, under Small Plates on the menu, are not exactly tapas-sized. Eggplant Maghmor (RM16) for instance, is a bowl of eggplant and chickpeas cooked in smoked tomato ragout.

Executive chef Logan Terence Lopez tops this with a quenelle of coarsely chopped chickpeas for added texture and a wedge of garlic melba toast. Slathered with garlic cream and sprinkled with chilli and nutmeg, it’s nicely crispy. We ask for another helping of Garlic Melba Toast (RM10) and it disappears almost as soon as it’s served.

As more friends join us, we order Soft Cheese Bruschetta (RM15) with cherry tomato coulis, soft mozzarella and fresh basil, Patatas Brava (RM22), a plate of Sliced Beef Chorizo cooked with potato, onion and capsicum in saffron sauce.

The Stuffed Lamb (RM30) is roasted sweet red peppers stuffed with minced lamb and served with a scrumptious blue cheese sauce and a drizzle of balsamic glaze. Yup, I scrape the plate clean with a spoon.

Then we have Prawn & Mango Salad (RM26), watercress, grilled prawn, Indian mango and honey mustard dressing.

Sadly, I find the mango lacking in flavour and aroma.

The squid is splendid. Baby Squid (RM28), stuffed with paella rice and cheese, is cooked in paprika sauce. I love Cuttlefish (RM30), squid slow cooked in squid ink gravy and served on panfried polenta with a sprinkle of chopped red capsicum and parsley. The squid ink adds a lovely briny flavour.

We also indulge in freshly shucked oysters, flown in from Ireland and France. Just a squeeze of lemon juice is all that’s needed here.

The one dish I regret is Wild Mushroom (RM25), made with eight types of mushrooms, carrot, celery and cheese espuma (foam). Strangely, there is a hint of sour that clashes with the earthy flavour of the mushrooms. OCEAN TREATS

Bait’s forte is seafood. Oven-baked Sole (RM79) is served whole, accompanied by cherrystone clams sauteed in a creamy sauce made with garlic, chilli and Spanish parsley.

Sole is a delicate fish and Logan gives it due respect, using just a light sprinkle of salt combined with perfect timing and temperature control to allow the fish to shine. Unfortunately, the clams are a bit gritty on the palate.

Our Grilled Perch Souvlaki (RM48) is a skewer of firm, fresh fish punctuated with roasted pepper and served with saffron gravy and coriander dip.

We’re still smacking lips over the squid ink Cuttlefish, so we order Fettucini Squid Ink (RM62). Black as night, the dish isn’t much to look at. We can barely make out the pasta while the white squid struggles to be visible in the inky sauce.

Tastewise though, it gets top marks. The pasta is perfectly al dente. There are bits of smoked peppers while bottarga (salted fish roe) injects an intense flavour of the sea to the dish.

LUNCH ON THE MOVE

Bait has a set lunch menu (RM29-RM49 nett), with appetiser/soup and a drink (coffee/tea/soft drink). There are Perch Fillet Fish & Chips, Sliced Australian Black Angus with truffle mushroom gravy, Wagyu Beef Sandwich with melted raclette cheese and Jumbo Prawn Curry Laksa.

Though it’s way past lunch hour, we cajole Logan into making us some laksa. The creamy gravy, scented with coconut cream and curry spices, is infused with the sweetness of udang galah; there’re two huge prawns, with vermicelli, tofu pok, hard boiled egg, beansprout and shredded cucumber.

Eggplant Maghmor with smoked tomato ragout and chickpeas.

LOT G-19, Ground Floor, The Intermark Mall,

348 Jalan Tun Razak, KL 03-2181 1268 ahoy@baitkl.com

Daily, 11am till late Western with focus on seafood

Stuffed Lamb and F ettucini Squid Ink

From RM10 to RM79 Elegant chic

Friendly and helpful Gogiveitatry Grilled Prawn & Mango

Salad.