Where the walls speak of the past
Every nook and cranny of Gyeongju, South Korea, whispers of stories from the Silla Dynasty, writes
Buddhist monks still reside in many of the temples that are available in these quiet mountains.
Eerie glow on the few tombs located inside Daereungwon Tomb Complex.
FROSTBITE. I never truly understood the word until I got out of the warm bus and into the blustery cold winter of Gyeongju, South Korea. The temperature is in the minus and all I have on is a bomber jacket over a thin shirt and a single layer of jeggings.
Gyeongju is an hour’s bus ride north of Busan or a four-hour ride southeast of Seoul. It is widely known as a museum without walls because the entire city is populated by numerous historical structures, treasures and artefacts that aren’t confined in a museum box. Most of them date back to more than a thousand years. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage city, all that’s here are either in their original form, completely intact, or have been restored to their former glory. Suffice to say, every path and nook in Gyeongju is filled with fascinating stories of a glorious past.
The city is steeped in history by virtue of it being the (capital city) of the ancient kingdom of Silla, which ruled much of the southeastern part of the peninsula from 57BC to 935AD. It’s also affectionately known as Geumseong (City of Gold) because of its wealth in Korean culture and for being home to the kingdom’s elite society as well as the Silla court. It was only in 940AD, during the reign of King Taejo of the Goryeo dynasty, that it was renamed as Gyeongju (literally translated as congratulatory district).
In addition, the city is also surrounded by the outliers of the Taebaek range, making it an alpine region. The Taebaek range is one of the largest in the peninsula. About 500 kilometres in length, it stretches on the eastern edge from the Hwangnyong Mountain in North Korea to Busan in the south of South Korea.
The most fascinating part about these mountains is their role as a sacred space for Buddhist pilgrims and monks to call home. There are many hidden grottos, temples and monasteries in these outliers, most notable of which is the Seokguram Grotto located a few kilometres’ hike from Bulguksa Temple on the outskirts of the city. This grotto houses a 3.5-metre Buddha statue inside a man-made cave and is regarded as Korea’s most valuable national treasure.
Sadly, many, if not all of these holy sites have seen various destructions and assaults from countless invasions. One of the many traditional hanok stays available in Gyeongju .
Fortunately, most were rebuilt and restored after the Japanese annexation during World War Two.
OLD WORLD CHARM
Although Gyeongju is famed for its old world charm and has managed to retain much of its traditional architecture, it isn’t entirely untouched by modernity. “It’s slowly becoming like any other city,” sighs my friend Seonmi, who has come to pick me up from the bus station.
Blooming like unsightly fungus, contemporary structures jostling for space between more ancient beauties are slowly becoming a common sight, much like its neighbours, Busan and Daegu. Indeed, the hanok (traditional Korean house) that I’m staying in for during the duration of my three nights here also sports an archaic exterior but fitted with a modern interior.
On the outside, the house is made of wooden beams and stones, fortified with red clay walls, and finished with the cheoma (curvy roofs synonymous with traditional Korean architecture) and traditional roof tiles known as giwa. The interior, however, is equipped with all the modern conveniences you can think of, such as a mini refrigerator, air conditioning and a modern bathroom complete with bidet and heated shower. Apart from the identity crisis, the room is cosy for two. And the best thing about it? The heated flooring that’s keeping me warm through the chilly winter weather.
The courtyard of the hanok feels a little desolated with dried grass, empty flower pots and cold steel garden furniture. Well, it is winter after all. The only splash of colour