TIMELESS ELEGANCE OF CHEONGSAM
Despite facing modern-day challenges, one Sarawak tailor continues the tradition of making the custom-made qipao
A CUSTOMISED cheongsam (qipao) will never go wrong during the Chinese New Year. Described as a timeless and elegant attire, the tradition of the qipao has lived on since the 17th century by the Manchu women of China.
Then a loose garment, the qipao took on its close-fitting look in the 1920s.
Today, due to the increasing cost of tailoring, workmanship and competition from ready-towear clothes retailers, fewer people are opting for a customised qipao.
Datuk Wee Hong Seng said the sales for cheongsam fabric, especially brocade, had been on a steep downward trend this past decade.
Wee, the third-generation owner of Chop Chin Nam, a fabric shop in India Street here, which was established in 1932, said a qipao needed up to three metres of brocade.
“For instance, we could sell more than 100 yards (91m) 10 years ago (for the Chinese New Year) and about 30 yards in recent years.
“The demand has dropped by 60 to 70 per cent,” he said.
The prices of brocade, which are normally imported from China, remain between RM20 and RM40 a metre.
But, the fee (to customise) a cheongsam cost about RM150 to RM200, or even more,” Wee said.
“In total, we need about RM300 to create a custom-made cheongsam while the ready-made ones costs less than RM100.
“Some people think that it’s not necessary to spend that much money on a dress that would be worn only during the festive season or on special occasions,” he said.
“This is the main reason behind the drop in demand, and consequently sales.”
However, he said, there were people who were willing to pay handsomely for a custom-made cheongsam.
Most would prefer to use brocade as it was heavier and able to hold the shape better than silk, which was softer, Wee said.
The design and style, including the print of the brocade, sleeves and length of the cheongsam has changed over the decades, with some modern elements added.
“Red and maroon remain the most popular colours for a cheongsam as the Chinese believe these bring prosperity and good luck. Those (colours) are among the bestsellers for our brocade for cheongsams,” he said.
As for the fabric patterns, ladies preferred floral designs while men preferred dragons.
Wee, who set up Fabriko, a company that specialised in batik and Sarawak’s ethnic designed fabric and textile, said there were handdrawn batik designed for the Chinese New Year.
“It costs about RM350 per piece (batik) and it’s unique as it carries Sarawak’s identity. We hope to see local designers or tailors use fabrics with Orang Ulu and Pua Kumbu prints for a cheongsam to further promote the state,” he said