Enchanted by The Valley of The Wind
THE small Twin Otter airplane weaved through the clouds at a low altitude as it flew above forested mountains. My gaze continuously switched between the open cockpit in front of me and the mesmerising green panorama below.
From the moment the plane took off in Miri, Sarawak the view had been nothing short of breathtaking. We left the flat lowland and entered the mountainous range in the highlands. Shortly after flying past the twin-peaked Batu Lawi, we approached the airstrip where the pilot made a smooth landing.
“Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to Bario”, he said as the plane came to a halt.
Why was I here? Because the idea of being somewhere close enough for a solo three-day weekend getaway and yet remote enough for a time-out was too tempting to resist. Bario, which means “The Valley of The Wind” in the Kelabit language, is tucked away in the Kelabit Highlands in northeastern Sarawak.
Nestled in natural greenery at 1,000m above sea level, deep in the interiors of Borneo, Bario is a great setting for outdoor adventures. Other than my pursuit of being close to nature, I looked forward to learning more about the Kelabits, one of Sarawak’s smallest ethnic groups.
KELABIT HOSPITALITY
I felt extremely privileged to stay with David and Lucy Labang, a retired couple who manage Labang Longhouse Lodge together with their son, Lian. Throughout my stay, I was spoilt not only by their warmth and friendliness, but also by Lucy’s amazing cooking skills and David’s humour.
As retired educators and conservatio nists, they have an abundance of great stories to share — from Kelabit’s distinctive lifestyle to conservation efforts in the highlands. In a place where everyone seems to know each other, I found the locals extremely welcoming and helpful. They had a way of making me feel immediately connected to the community.
PEACE AND SERENITY
The trip to Bario was somewhat spontaneous as I had this urge to temporarily disconnect from hectic city life. As soon as I checked in at the lodge, I wandered aimlessly around this lovely town with the help of a map and Lucy’s bike.
It didn’t take long for me to appreciate the peacefulness of this place. Here I was, surrounded by lush rice fields and virgin rainforests, where the air was fresh and cool. The serenity was exactly what I had searched for to bring my pace down a few notches. Furthermore, thanks to limited phone coverage, it was easy to relax without unwelcomed distractions.
SUNRISE AT PRAYER MOUNTAIN
I had an early start on my second day as I attempted to climb Prayer Mountain together with a few others in the hope of catching the sunrise upon reaching the top. After a steep and slippery ascent, I was pleased to be greeted by the panoramic view of the valley from the summit despite it being partly covered by a sea of mist.
The sounds of gibbons and other animals accompanied us as we stood in silence, awestruck by the beauty that surrounded us. Seeing the sun rising above the horizon was one of the most beautiful things I had witnessed in quite a while. Other than Prayer Mountain, I had the opportunity to trek through the thick tropical forest to Pa’ Ramapuh Waterfall, the closest waterfall from town. As we hiked upstream, passing several small streams, I lost count of the number of leech bites I had all over my body. The path to the five tiered waterfall was very muddy but I suppose that is part of the fun.
Once we reached the fall, I took a short dip in the cold water as Lian prepared afternoon tea. A picnic next to a waterfall deep in the forest? What more could I ask for?
On my final day in Bario, I accompanied Lucy to the weekly Saturday market to buy some fresh fruit and vegetables. As I waited for Lucy to finish her shopping, I sat at the coffee shop, chatting with those I had made friends with over the past few days.
Lucy insisted that I take two of the Bario pineapples that she just bought back to Kuala Lumpur. “In case you miss us,” she said. Oh Lucy, yes! I will miss all of this! Sure, the rustic trails are out-of-the-world, but it is the hospitality of the locals that makes Bario a place I will return to someday.