New Straits Times

Egyptian delights

Savour exotic dishes at Tut’s Egyptian Eatery, writes Ewe Paik Leong

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AN exotic ambience permeates Tut’s Egyptian Eatery as patrons are greeted with a massive sign showcasing Egyptian hieroglyph­s.

On every table is a figurine related to the country such as a falcon, Sphinx or sacrophagu­s. Egyptian motifs are also scattered on the walls. The uniforms of the male waiters are Egyptian-inspired, while the females don black hijab.

The menu is filled with colourful photograph­s but being devoid of Egyptian design elements, it is out of sync with the decor. The short listings are convention­ally arranged. First come starters, last are drinks. In between are mains, sides and desserts.

Only six items are listed in the mains and, from the notes and photos, the fried chicken and roast chicken appear rather mundane.

There are also non-Egyptian dishes such as garlic bread, Caesar’s salad and Greek salad. The only drinks that are Egyptian are sobya milk and Egyptian coffee but this is less a criticism than an observatio­n.

THE FOOD

From the starter section comes a bowl of Molokhia minced leaf stew which looks like algae submerged in gravy.

I recall reading that Molokhia is also known as Nalta jute and is native to Egypt. It contains plenty of vitamins and minerals and is regarded as a healthy food.

Though this stew is “spiced with fine butter, garlic, coriander, cumin and black pepper” (according to the menu), the flavours blur each other out and become an indistinct spicy mass.

The texture of the leaves conjure up images of the mint leaf in soup served by Nyonya restaurant­s, minus the mint. The buttery broth coats my tongue with a lush and heavy sensation.

A main course of Koshari mixed grain bowl brings an assemblage of pasta, rice, chick peas, lentils (and here I scratch my head in puzzlement) sides of the same stuff, i.e., lentils, fried onions and chick peas.

Condiments of chilli sauce and tomato sauce pack a punch.

The proper way to eat this dish? I’m not sure but taking a cue from Frank Sinatra’s I Did It My Way, I simply mix half with chilli sauce and the other half with tomato sauce.

The chilli sauce-dressed grains thrill, the tomato sauce-enrobed grains soothe, and both deliver soft-crunchy joys.

No wonder it is regarded as Egypt’s national dish.

A second main course of herbal hot plate chicken with baked rice is shared with my dining companion.

Wow, this dish fires on all cylinders! The “secret sauces” have energised both the chicken and rice into savoury delights, and there are also mild hints of saffron. Potatoes up the ante in the textural game.

Next, a plate of hawaoshi baked lamb foldover — described as “baked bread” in the menu — arrives looking like triangular toasts with burnt marks. I dip one corner of a piece in the tahini sauce and chomp on it.

An unexpected jolt of sesame-and-sweetness from the tahini hits me and the mouthful shatters to release succulent strands of flavourful mutton. Though this is not an invented dish, the execution is perfect.

For dessert, roz b laban is presented as a rice pudding topped with a layer of vanilla and milk and funkified with blue berries and strawberry. Working my way top down, the berries and strawberry first twist my tongue with their tartness. Then it is comforted by the vanilla and milk.

Mention must be made of the sweet potato fries and French fries, the latter dubbed unnecessar­ily as Tuts Dynasty Fries. Both are crisp-skinned, clean-tasting and are cut from fresh stuff.

Finally, tamarind juice flushes down my food. It is tangy and sweetish, both flavours equally matched in combat.

 ?? Pictures by ewe Paik Leong ?? Koshari Mixed Grain Bowl is Egypt’s national dish.
Pictures by ewe Paik Leong Koshari Mixed Grain Bowl is Egypt’s national dish.
 ??  ?? AbOvE: Lamb hawaoshi foldover contains either mutton or beef. RigHT: Roz b laban creamy delight is served warm or cold.
AbOvE: Lamb hawaoshi foldover contains either mutton or beef. RigHT: Roz b laban creamy delight is served warm or cold.
 ??  ??
 ??  ?? Herbal hot plate chicken with baked rice brims with flavours from fresh herbs.
Herbal hot plate chicken with baked rice brims with flavours from fresh herbs.

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