Hip and heritage
Melbourne is not only popular for its good food but also heritage and cutting-edge creative attractions, writes Andrew Drummond Law
THE 1.6-km by 0.8-km Hoddle Grid is the heart of this city of nearly five million inhabitants. Bordered by Flinders and Spring Streets, La Trobe and Spencer Streets, the area forms the CBD’s centre.
I am staying at the Citadines serviced apartments on Bourke Street. I couldn’t be more central when I step out of the lobby into the main shopping drag. Walking, the tram, and cycling, are your best bets for city exploring.
I start with a morning Real Melbourne Bike Tour. Murray Johnson is our group guide and the owner of the largest calf muscles in the southern hemisphere. Cycling is great exercise!
Beginning at Federation Square, we follow the bike-friendly lanes that skirt the Yarra River. At Fitzroy Gardens we see an 18th century cottage originally from England, and rebuilt brick by brick in the 1930s.
It is the cottage of explorer Captain Cook’s family. Cook was the first European to navigate Australia’s eastern coastline, naming it New South Wales.
Another highlight is a mid-morning expresso with cakes at Brunetti’s Italian coffee shop. The Italian community has a large influence in the city. But listening to Murray’s stories are the real reason to go on this tour. A journalist, his candid and lucid insight into current issues bring this city to life.
We pass by Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, the country’s largest. And also the 1,500-seater Princess Theatre, another famous landmark where you can attend ballet, musicals, theatre, and comedy concerts.
The morning bike ride is a great intro for more detailed exploring I will do on foot later. I’m curious to get my bearings and I discover a David Jones and Target department stores are only five minutes’ walk from my serviced apartment.
And Michaels, the camera store. It is such a positive experience to chat to knowledgeable and professional employees that help you, rather than try to sell you their most expensive items.
On Little Bourke Street is the Shark Fin Inn restaurant, where Ihave a very reasonably priced and delicious Cantonese dinner. Don’t be fooled by the establishment’s name — luckily I can’t find any such dishes on the menu.
I turn in early that night, knowing the next few days will be exhausting.
After a 5am early morning run, and swim in the Citadines gym, I am feeling fit, but famished. The most important meal of the day is breakfast, and The Auction Rooms on
Errol Street, North Melbourne, is one of the most hip places to eat. A former auction room, its quirky design of old wooden flooring, exposed beams and brickwork, are very instagramfriendly backgrounds for your food. The All Day menu includes white quinoa porridge or brioche French toast, corned beef hash or baked eggs. Toast options include sourdough, rye or gluten-free with a choice of vegemite, peanut butter, honey or fruit jam.
The Breakfast board of grilled sausage, cauliflower fritters, smoked salmon, a soft boiled egg with rye soldiers, matched with a turmeric and ginger smoothie, give you an idea of its clientele’s expectations.
I opt for a comparatively boring Royale Burger with Wagyu beef patty and fries. The ingredients, the flavours, and the look are most excellent.
Other than the food, the other feel good factor is how it prides itself in sourcing seasonal produce, supporting sustainable farming practices, and composting its food waste.
With the St Ali coffee group, led by entrepreneur Salvatore Malatesta, supplying its specialty coffees, you know its beans are sourced through direct trade and its business culture is more community-based than most.
But beware of the Auction Rooms’ split bills and surcharge policy: an additional 10 per cent on Saturdays and Sundays, and on public holidays a massive 18 per cent; and no split bills on weekends and busy periods.
Krimper is another must-do breakfast, brunch and lunch joint on Guildford Lane, close to Melbourne’s Central Railway Station.
Named after the furniture designer of the large wooden sideboard that is the industrial warehouse style cafe’s centrepiece, design is its hallmark.
The detailing, textures and colours of the brick walls, the tables and chairs made from recycled lift doors and timber, and a 100 yearold lift that has been made into a dining booth, all complement one another aesthetically.
No surprises that an architect, Malaysianborn Mun Soon, is also the owner and designer behind all of this beautiful recycled wood.
You can’t go wrong with The Brekkie Platter or the Smashed Avo staple dishes.
GOOD FOOD AND CAMARADERIE
For lunch or dinner, Alimentari on Smith Street, Collingwood, has a relaxed cafe ambience, but the food of a very good restaurant.
A deli/cafe/restaurant, its friendly service, Italian food, desserts and wines, served in a light and bright dining area, make this a daily lunch destination for many Melbournians. It’s freshly made take-home meals, stocks, sauces and polenta, are also a draw for those in the neighbourhood.
Get a table at the back where the roof is opened up, weather permitting, and you can imagine you’re in some rustic Italian joint hiding from the crowds, slowly sipping on your glass of wine, contemplating the meaning of life.
Try the paninis and wraps for a snack, or the pork and veal meatballs on soft polenta. And a pastry cream-filled bombolini - an Italian doughnut — to top it off.
For dinner, try Ombra on Bourke Street, best known for its Italian cold cuts. Select the Salumi sharing menu. If there’s one you love, you can order more: prosciutto, salame Milano, mortadella, cacciatore, capocollo and guanciale.
Try its range of Cichetti (small snacks like tapas served in Venice): salted cod, oysters, stuffed rice balls, ox tongue and many more. The salted caramel profiteroles are an addictive, guilty pleasure.
FOR THE SWEET TOOTH
A lot of your time will be spent looking for gifts. Visit Haigh’s Chocolates on Collins Street, a brisk walk from Bourke Street.
Its 70 per cent dark chocolate bar and the Madagascar Single origin milk chocolate with vanilla are sinful, delicious treats to be savoured — ideally alone — with your favourite Netflix series.
There are even gluten and/or egg-free options for those with dietary requirements. But the button-shaped milk chocolate pastilles are my favourite.
For more sweet gifts, look no further than Burch & Purchese for cakes and desserts. Located on Chapel Street in South Yarra, if you’re lucky you may even get to chat with the husband and wife team of British celebrity chef Darren Purchese and his wife Cath Claringbold.
The small cafe area is a good pit stop to taste and decide what to bring home with you. On the inside walls are works of edible art, like paintings. And with the tastes, colours and textures of the sponges, jellies, mousses, creams, jams, crumbles and creams, you will quickly appreciate the skill, the love, and the sheer hard work that has gone into creating these miniature masterpieces.
For something with a more familiar Malaysian twist, visit Luxbite on Toorak Road, also in
South Yarra, for a sweet snack and beverage. Try its Pandan and coconut macarons. Or the coconut with calamansi version, plus the macarons with lychee.
You’re sure to leave the store with a dozen or two, or perhaps a celebration cake, something from its patisserie selection, or even a jar of kaya coconut jam. Malaysian chef Bernard Chu’s personal touch is unmistakable.
AUSSIE SOUVENIRS
Up the hill on Bourke Street is a bookstore, named Hill of Content. Still on its original premises since opening in 1922, if you’re in search of locally published books and magazines this is for you.
With regular evening events you can even meet their books’ authors. And their selection of children’s books is wonderful, with Australia-themed stories that are beautifully illustrated.
Coffee is a great Melbourne memento. Buy some roasted coffee from Industry Beans coffee roasters in Fitzroy. Every fortnight it offers a new selection of single origin coffee for filter and expresso coffee. And judging by the aroma in the cabin on my flight back to KL, many had the same idea.
The one Australian souvenir I have wanted for years is a pair of Blundstone boots. Colloquially known as “Blunnies”, the design is similar to a pair of Chelsea boots, but on steroids. The laceless, elastic-sided, leather ankle-length boots are sturdy, use anywhere, and travel everywhere, footwear. I bought a pair from an Aussie Disposals store that also sells camping and military surplus equipment. Despite its “Tasmania, Australia” branding, Blunnies are now made in Vietnam, India, Romania, Mexico and China,
But are still as Australian as can be for me. Made all over the world. But proud to be labelled and quality branded as Australian. Travelling anywhere, and everywhere.