FOOD FIGHT OVER BID FOR U.N. HONOUR
Singapore bid to get Unesco recognition for hawker culture ticks off Malaysians
SINGAPORE’S bid to get United Nations recognition for its street food has sparked a cross-border culinary clash, with angry chefs in neighbouring Malaysia pouring cold water on the idea.
Singapore is home to many food courts where hawkers serve dishes such as chicken rice, noodles and satay relatively cheaply.
Some hawkers have even been awarded Michelin stars.
Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong last week said Singapore would nominate its hawker culture to United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation’s (Unesco) list of intangible cultural heritage, describing Singapore’s food centres as “community dining rooms” that form part of the country’s identity.
But the move sparked anger in Malaysia, whose citizens have long claimed their street food, which shares many similarities with Singapore’s, is far superior.
Malaysian celebrity chef Redzuawan Ismail, best known as Chef Wan, said he thought Singapore’s UN bid was “rubbish”.
“When you talk about hawkers, Singapore is not the only one to have hawker culture... Why (do you) need to go to Unesco to patent? Is yours so special?”
Another well-known local chef, Ismail Ahmad, insisted that his country was a street food “paradise” and Malaysia should be the one applying for UN recognition.
“Even Singaporeans come to Malaysia and enjoy our stalls.”
But Singaporeans have dismissed the anger in Malaysia, insisting a Unesco listing is about more than just food.
“It is about the street food culture heritage that bonds people together and is supported by the government and industry, because it is about the community,” acclaimed Singaporean food critic K.F. Seetoh was quoted as saying in Singapore’s New Paper.
“If you have it, flaunt it.” Singapore plans to submit its nomination to Unesco in March, and an announcement on whether the bid is successful is expected in 2020.