KT’s top breakfast choice
A trip to Kuala Terengganu is not complete until one tucks into what the locals consider as the best breakfast item in town, writes Alan Teh Leam Seng
ALONG the drive from our hotel in the heart of Kuala Terengganu, we both pray hard that there is still food available at Kak Jah’s highly popular nasi dagang outlet. This place is so well known that people are known to line up even before the shutters are lifted at 7am. The shop usually runs out of food about two hours later.
When we arrive at Nasi Dagang Kak Jah stall at Jalan Pasir Panjang beside Bukit Besar, it is already packed. Both sides of the road are filled to the brim with cars. Concerned about the food running out, I ask my friend to drop me off first while he looks for a parking lot.
I quickly make my way to the shop and head to the end of the long snaking queue. My steps get considerably faster when my olfactory receptors detect the delicious aroma wafting in the air. There are at least 15 people in front of me and it looks like I will be standing in line for quite some time.
SPICE IT UP
While waiting, I decide to observe the diners at a table nearby. Although Kak Jah offers both the traditional nasi dagang and nasi kunyit (yellow glutinous rice), it looks like the former is the clear favourite.
Served on a piece of fresh banana leaf, the fluffy glutinous rice is topped with a large piece of ikan tongkol (mackerel) and a generous amount of gravy.
The other side additions on the plates include acar (pickled vegetables) and hard boiled eggs. The sight of the food makes me hungry. I mentally urge the line to go faster but to no avail.
It’s almost my turn when my friend makes an appearance. We both opt for the traditional nasi dagang and watch in awe as Kak Jah skilfully prepares our morning meal.
In just a matter of minutes, we find ourselves happily sharing a table with several other diners who introduce themselves as locals living in the vicinity. Their warm friendly smiles make us feel really welcomed.
Then, just as I am about to start, I notice
the person sitting next to me spooning several small chillies from a bottle on the table. It seems that the locals here really favour these preserved additions. One elderly woman at our table confidently quips: “You will always want chillies with nasi dagang after your first try.”
Unlike my friend who is not accustomed to spicy food, I decide to give it a go. Just for comparison, I decide to try some nasi dagang without the spicy addition and only add them in my subsequent tasting.
The chillies certainly has a positive effect on the dish, enhancing both the flavour of the fish as well as the rice. I thank my table mates for their sound advice.
The rice is cooked to perfection. It is firm and fragrant. The ikan tongkol (skipjack tuna) is fresh and does not have any fishy smell. Unfortunately, the gravy is a bit sparse for my liking and I have to practise restraint in order for them to last the entire meal. Other than that, Kak Jah’s nasi dagang gets my stamp of approval.
DAILY BREAKFAST
My after-meal attempt to get more infor- mation from Kak Jah regarding her establishment ends in futility. She is constantly kept on her toes dishing out orders and barely has time to answer my questions. Fortunately, my new found friends at the table happily accede to my request to find out more about this amazing Terengganu cuisine.
My friend and I learn that nasi dagang is a popular breakfast meal in the east coast of Malaysia, especially in Terengganu and Kelantan. While most women know how to cook nasi dagang, most prefer to eat out as it saves them both the hassle of having to go to the market and clean up once the cooking is done. Furthermore, eating at shops like the one here gives them the opportunity to socialise with friends.
“Our children work in other parts of the country and it does not make sense to cook nasi dagang when there are so few of us left at home,” a man across the table explains further.
Nasi dagang is essentially made up of a ratio of four parts ordinary rice to one part glutinous rice. The mixture is cooked with coconut milk. A variety of spices together with garlic, onions and ginger are also part of the required ingredients.
The ikan tongkol and acar have to be prepared separately. While furiously taking notes, I also find out chicken can also be an option for those who are not keen on fish.
Finally, we bid our new-found friends farewell. We still have another day in Kuala Terengganu and we want to have nasi dagang at Kampung Ladang, which also comes highly recommended, for breakfast tomorrow.
The mere thought of that already makes my mouth water. I simply cannot wait for tomorrow morning to come.