Keeping food heritage alive
FOOD makes up a huge intangible part of the culture that defines Malaysia. For centuries, heritage and traditional cuisines have been passed down from generations to generations, forming the national identity. Universiti Teknologi MARA (UiTM)’s Faculty of Hotel and Tourism Management recently organised the inaugural Kongres Makanan Warisan 2019 at its Shah Alam campus.
Launched by Tengku Permaisuri Selangor Tengku Permaisuri Norashikin, the event hoped to raise awareness on Malay heritage cuisine.
In his opening speech, UiTM deputy vice-chancellor (development) Associate Professor Dr Mohd Fozi Ali said that the congress is the perfect platform to hold a discourse on the heritage food.
“Food should not just be known for the taste but instead we should appreciate its history that shapes our identity. A famous French gastronomist once said, ‘Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are.’ This clearly shows how food constructs our identity.
“Hence, we should not be too invested in international cuisine that we put aside or worse, downgrade our own heritage food that has been our national identity for so long.”
The two-day event was held in collaboration with Selangor Malay Customs And Heritage Corporation, the Institution of Malay Rulers Chair UiTM and National Heritage Department of Tourism, Arts and Culture Ministry. This was a follow-up to the Heritage Food Symposium in 2017, co-organised by the Culinary and Gastronomy Department of the faculty and Selangor Malay Customs And Heritage Corporation.
Tengku Permaisuri Norashikin also visited the heritage food exhibition and witnessed a heritage cuisine demonstration by Hotel and Tourism Management Faculty deputy dean (student affairs) Dr Ahmad Esa Abdul Rahman.
“Tengku Permaisuri Norashikin requested for us to take this recipe from the Gastronomi Warisan II book that we specially published for this congress,” said Ahmad Esa who prepared kerabu kacang kelisa
ikan kembung for the food demonstration.
“This congress allows students to gain knowl
edge from the presentations by the notable speakers. As part of their syllabus, they are required to take two special courses namely Malaysian ethnic cuisines and Malay ethnic cuisines so this is a grand opportunity for them to learn.”
For Hotel and Tourism Management Faculty dean, Professor Dr Mohd Salehuddin Mohd Zahari, modernisation is inevitable but something must be done to keep the heritage alive.
“As the pioneer in the field of culinary arts in the country, we bear the responsibility to uphold the prestige of traditional and heritage cuisine as well as preserving its sustainability.
“We have looked into combining the traditional and modern way of preparing food (foodways) while ensuring its authenticity. In the past, we used to grind ingredients using the mortar and pestle but now we have the food processor. Even though the process may change, the ingredients remain the same so the taste will stay true to the original flavour.
“Our culinary and gastronomy department studies food from the socio-cultural perspective. The academicians in the department have been conducting rigourous research on traditional Malaysian cuisines.
“For instance, we did a research on the integration of food and adaptation of foodways in forming the food identity.”
Researcher and congress chairperson Dr Noriza Ishak said: “This is an avenue to gather academicians, culturalists, chefs and scholars who are experts in this field to educate the public, especially the younger generations. If we don’t pass this knowledge to them or if we fail to instill this in their minds, who will continue this legacy in the future?
“Unfortunately, there are Malay dishes that have already become extinct. To avoid this, we should keep on making these heritage cuisine. Problems such as ingredient shortage will cease because with demand, the production will rise. The herbs can be replanted.”
She added: “It’s true that some of the heritage food may be considered an acquired taste. The youths may not warm up to them automatically. But if we serve these dishes to our children every day then in time, they will develop a liking for this endangered cuisine. We need to act fast with the influx of global cuisines that are capturing the youths’ hearts.”
In the exhibition, informative notes and models of heritage delicacies such as sulur keladi, gulai
lemak kulat sisir, kuih peria and gulai batang pisang were on display.
Sarawak-born student Muhammad Hisyam Zawawi, 20, manned one of the booths supporting the faculty’s efforts in upholding heritage food.
Muhammad Hisyam and his classmates prepared banana cake, ayam masak lemak cili api and
nasi tomato for the exhibition.
“We volunteered to join this congress to help the faculty. I hope that the youths can preserve the heritage which we have inherited from our ancestors.”
Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are. JEAN ANTHELME BRILLAT-SAVARIN French gastronomist