Bastion of heritage
WHY MUSEUMS REMAIN RELEVANT
WITH the flood waters fast receding, a group of villagers from Kampung Buluh gathered at the banks of Sungai Tersat and began descending cautiously down the slippery slope. The men were seeking large stones exposed recently by the rapidly flowing water currents to help rebuild their badly damaged village. Kuala Berang district bore the brunt of the 1887 floods which devastated many parts of Hulu Terengganu.
In the midst of their extraction effort, one of the men noticed a partially mud-covered boulder filled with strange inscriptions and decided that a nearby surau should have the honour of having it. The stone remained at Surau Tok Rashid for many years before it was moved to Surau Kampung Buluh. By then, the stone’s significance had been largely forgotten and it merely served as a raised step leading up to the main prayer hall.
“So, this is the actual stone that the villagers found?” I ask Wan Mohammad Shaari, pointing to a large stone filled with Jawi script writing on all four sides. The security guard who has been in charge of Memorial Batu Bersurat (Inscription Stone Memorial) for more than a decade and claims to know the history by heart shakes his head.
“This Batu Bersurat is just a replica, made to commemorate the stone’s discovery more than 130 years ago at the river bank very close to this spot,” he elaborates before continuing his intriguing tale.
The stone remained in obscurity in Kampung Buluh until the village was visited by a Terengganu noble, Pengiran Anum Engku Abdul Kadir Engku Besar, and his tin prospector friend, Syed Husin Ghulam Al-Bokhari in 1902.
While entering the surau to perform Zohor prayers, the duo noticed the inscriptions on the stone and immediately realised the importance of their discovery. Arrangements were made for it to be brought by raft to the state capital, Kuala Terengganu. There, it was presented to Sultan Zainal Abidin III who had it placed at the top of nearby Bukit Puteri.
The stone remained at its lofty home for two decades. In July 1922, the deputy Terengganu British Adviser, Major H.S. Peterson sent photographs of the inscriptions taken by a Japanese photographer to London for analysis. The findings, although disputed by several quarters at that time, sparked intense interest among regional historical society members
A year later, Terengganu British Adviser, J.L. Humphreys, secured approval from the Terengganu Government to loan the Batu Bersurat to the Singapore Raffles Museum, where it remained for nearly four decades. In the early 1960s, the newlybuilt Muzium Negara (National Museum) in Kuala Lumpur became its next home.
STONE RETURNS HOME
Wan Mohammad’s last comment put paid to my dream of seeing the actual stone during my visit. Disappointment must have been written all over my face as he quickly resumes his story, pointing out that the Terengganu state government began lobbying for the repatriation of the Batu Bersurat starting from 1979.
I just couldn’t stop grinning widely when Wan Mohd concludes his tale by saying that a formal request for the handover was lodged on Feb 12, 1987. Four years later, the Federal Cabinet in Kuala Lumpur approved the request and since then the historic Batu
Bersurat has made the Terengganu State Museum its permanent home.
Bidding the helpful man farewell, I make a beeline for the Terengganu state capital. During the hour-long drive, thoughts of the Batu Bersurat fill my mind. Inscribed with the earliest known Jawi writing in the Malay world, the artefact is one of the oldest testimonies to the establishment of Islam as a state religion in this region.
Dating possibly to 702 Hijrah (about 1303 AD), the inscriptions primarily relate to a decree issued by the-then ruling Terengganu monarch who urged his subjects to extend and uphold Islam while providing 10 basic Sharia laws for their guidance.
In an effort to acknowledge the historical significance of the Batu Bersurat, Unesco’s International Advisory Committee (IAC) confirmed its inclusion in the heritage list of Memory of the World Programme in 2009. The move made the Batu Bersurat only the fourth heritage recognition accorded to Malaysia after Hikayat Hang Tuah, Sejarah Melayu and the Sultan Abdul Hamid correspondence.
PLACE FOR THE YOUNG TO LEARN
It’s almost noon when my car finally pulls up at the Terengganu State Museum’s spacious parking area. The presence of a large number of school buses and their drivers waiting idly by at a nearby designated area catches my attention. It warms my heart knowing that the younger generation in Terengganu are making full use of this place to gain an insight into their state’s rich and diverse heritage.
Returning my focus to my main intention of visiting the museum, I make a beeline for the main entrance. With rapid steps, I ignore the constant crunch of gravel under my feet and impatiently count down the
minutes before I can finally clap eyes on the original Batu Bersurat.
Considered the largest historical repository of its kind in Southeast Asia, the sprawling Terengganu State Museum complex is located in Bukit Losong, a picturesque suburb of the state capital. Architecturally-designed to resemble an ancient Malay palace, this magnificent structure was officially declared open by Sultan Mahmud Al-Muktafi Bilah Shah on April 20, 1996.
The main complex consists of four interconnected blocks while a maritime museum, a collection of traditional Malay houses and several historic fishing vessels; are found scattered throughout the well landscaped 27-hectare site.
While the buildings are constructed primarily of concrete instead of wood, their delicate craftsmanship and sweeping pitched roofs give the museum an imposing appearance. This visual impact is further accentuated by the well-maintained fish ponds and water fountains that seem to dance around the many concrete columns that support the main building complex.
Arriving at the main entrance after a brief climb up a flight of stairs, I’m taken aback to find the lobby area filled almost to the brim with primary schoolchildren. Biding time until the crowd moves on, I approach a group of middle-aged women standing nearby. Judging from their appearance and demeanour, it’s obvious that they’re teachers chaperoning the school kids.
INTERNATIONAL MUSEUM DAY
During our brief conversation, I learn that the students are taking part in various activities organised by the museum in conjunction with International Museum Day. The children are encouraged to visit all the seven main galleries found within the main complex building before using the information acquired to complete their class assignments.
The educators express hope that this annual event will become a major impetus for the younger generation to continuously make full use of museum facilities in their quest to become useful members of a knowledge-based society. Noticing that most of the students have dispersed to the various galleries, I take leave of the friendly teachers and embark on the final leg of my journey towards the Islamic Gallery.
Finally, the Batu Bersurat comes into full view. With the help of the well positioned lighting system, the inscriptions stand out perfectly against the dark surface. Overwhelmed by the moment and oblivious to the children moving around me, I stand rooted to the ground and start taking in all that is before my eyes with bated breath.
“The writing looks really old,” a boy mutters to his friend as both of them press their faces on the glass panel in front of me while trying to get the best view. His friend, who’s obviously in awe of the Batu Bersurat, is oblivious to the comment and just continues peering. The duo look visibly excited after reading about the Batu Bersurat story from the explanatory board and bolt off with lightning speed as soon as they’re done.
PRICELESS HERITAGE
This incident highlights the key role played by museums in the conservation and preservation of our priceless heritage, as well as how it contributes towards the development of society and nation building. As official custodians of our nation’s cultural treasures, museums bear the weight of responsibility to ensure that all the artefacts are well-maintained.
It’s equally important that the displays are accompanied by interesting nuggets of information which will create excitement among members of the public and help them discover the interesting aspects of our nation’s diverse cultural heritage.
Like many museums in Malaysia, the Terengganu State Museum isn’t specialised. It is home to a diverse collection of ethnological, archaeological and natural history materials which are spread throughout its seven galleries in the main museum building as well as in two others found located close by the Maritime Museum.
Having had my fill of the Batu Bersurat, I shift my attention to the other displays found in the Islamic Gallery. Like the museum’s star attraction, the interesting manuscripts and eye-catching ceramics on display tell the spellbinding tale of the arrival and expansion of Islam throughout the Malay Peninsula.
Photographs of the various Terengganu mosques in this section prove most useful as they allow me to have a better understanding of the two places of prayer in Kuala Berang that was once home to the Batu Bersurat.
OTHER GALLERIES
The other display areas on the ground floor include the Textile Gallery and the Craft Gallery. The former provides useful information about the processes involved in the production of locally-made textiles, displaying attractive examples of traditional garments that were worn at weddings and other ceremonial occasions in the past.
I note that visitors, especially school boys, spend quite a lot of time marvelling at the various traditional weapons on display at the Craft Gallery. At the same time, the detailed information about cottage industries making brass, rattan baskets as well as gold and silver ornaments provides an interesting insight into the local crafts that are fast disappearing.
The first floor area, which is accessed via a flight of intricately carved wooden staircase, consists of several long galleries that are designed in an east-west orientation. Among the many displays, the one I like best is the incense burner located in the Royal Gallery.
This unique piece was made in 1940 by two local artisans, Mat Omar and Abdullah Ali, after it was commissioned by Sultan Sulaiman Badrul Alam Shah as a gift for Terengganu’s royal mosque, Masjid Abidin.
I spend the remaining hour visiting the Maritime Museum which is quite a walk away from the main building. Fortunately, the exceptional displays highlighting the skilled Terengganu boat builders and the various types of vessels used in the past more than make up for my unexpected but very welcomed cardio workout.
As I make my walk back to the car, I leave with the hope that the museum will grow from strength to strength and continue striving to upgrade its already commendable artefacts collection. As keepers, protectors, interpreters and exhibitors of our common heritage, museums are surely among the last few bastions of authentic sources of knowledge in this increasingly virtual world of ours.