FERINGGI GRILL AT SHANGRI-LA’S RASA SAYANG RE­SORT & SPA

Robb Report (Malaysia) - - Savour -

When the Rasa Sayang Re­sort and Spa opened in Pe­nang in 1973, it was con­sid­ered the is­land’s ul­ti­mate des­ti­na­tion for a Malaysian beach hol­i­day. Sim­i­larly, the prop­erty’s Feringgi Grill, which also opened that year, was touted as a fine-din­ing restau­rant bar none. But 43 years is a long time, and it’s re­fresh­ing to note how Rasa Sayang Re­sort has evolved through the decades as has Feringgi Grill. The restau­rant’s lo­ca­tion at the Rasa Wing’s mez­za­nine floor re­mains a be­guil­ing spot to catch the sun­set. The food, how­ever, bears an in­ter­na­tional edge, thanks to chef de cui­sine Thibault Pou­plard who pre­vi­ously worked in Shang­hai at the Miche­lin-starred Unico by Mauro Co­la­greco. Chef Pou­plard tem­pers his flavours through the use of lo­cally prof­fered in­gre­di­ents and ex­quis­ite pro­duce. Sta­ples such as mush­room soup is given some ex­tra bite with the in­clu­sion of crushed peanuts and truf­fle ravi­oli, while seafood en­trees such as grilled oc­to­pus with pi­mento, ca­pers and spring onions are ten­der and tasty. The Loire-born chef is not one to skimp on rar­efied del­i­ca­cies. Take for in­stance, the seared foie gras that’s given a lighter zing with a rosella re­duc­tion. Or the de­lec­ta­ble va­ri­ety of air-flown beef op­tions, span­ning

the An­gus to Wagyu va­ri­eties, the lat­ter of which has an Aus­tralian mar­bling of eight to nine, fresh from Stan­broke farm in Queens­land.

On Fridays and Satur­days, din­ers are in for an ex­tra treat with spe­cial serv­ings of beef ribs cooked on the bone and plated at the table with red wine gravy. While Feringgi Grill ex­cels at keep­ing the menu pro­gres­sive and in tune with in­ter­na­tional culi­nary fads, the restau­rant also doffs its cap to time- hon­oured tra­di­tions such as clas­sic beef ribs and York­shire pud­ding.

Like­wise for desserts, things are kept sim­ple and chic.

The lemon tart, com­posed of a Bri­tany bis­cuit base, lemon cus­tard and meringue, might sound con­ven­tional. But be pre­pared to en­joy the pi­quant com­bi­na­tion of zesty lemon and sweet creamy cus­tard, pre­sented fash­ion­ably in a drink­ing glass. There is also crepe suzette, a throw­back to the 1970s when this French dessert was the rage at ev­ery restau­rant du jour, prov­ing that ev­ery­thing old even­tu­ally be­comes new again. The re s t au ra n t ’ s ver­sion of this il­lus­tri­ous dessert is pre­pared and served at the table, re­call­ing a dif­fer­ent time in a place that has stead­fastly stood the tests of both food trends and fickle din­ers. www. shangri- la. com/ pe­nang/rasasayan­gre­sort

Feringgi Grill ex­cels at keep­ing the menu pro­gres­sive and in tune with in­ter­na­tional culi­nary fads.

From top: the cosy am­bi­ence of Feringgi Grill; Cod Fish with As­para­gus.

Feringgi Grill’s amuse-bouche is cal­cu­lated to whet ap­petites Fac­ing page: Foie Gras Ter­rine.

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