Robb Report (Malaysia)

FERINGGI GRILL AT SHANGRI-LA’S RASA SAYANG RESORT & SPA

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When the Rasa Sayang Resort and Spa opened in Penang in 1973, it was considered the island’s ultimate destinatio­n for a Malaysian beach holiday. Similarly, the property’s Feringgi Grill, which also opened that year, was touted as a fine-dining restaurant bar none. But 43 years is a long time, and it’s refreshing to note how Rasa Sayang Resort has evolved through the decades as has Feringgi Grill. The restaurant’s location at the Rasa Wing’s mezzanine floor remains a beguiling spot to catch the sunset. The food, however, bears an internatio­nal edge, thanks to chef de cuisine Thibault Pouplard who previously worked in Shanghai at the Michelin-starred Unico by Mauro Colagreco. Chef Pouplard tempers his flavours through the use of locally proffered ingredient­s and exquisite produce. Staples such as mushroom soup is given some extra bite with the inclusion of crushed peanuts and truffle ravioli, while seafood entrees such as grilled octopus with pimento, capers and spring onions are tender and tasty. The Loire-born chef is not one to skimp on rarefied delicacies. Take for instance, the seared foie gras that’s given a lighter zing with a rosella reduction. Or the delectable variety of air-flown beef options, spanning

the Angus to Wagyu varieties, the latter of which has an Australian marbling of eight to nine, fresh from Stanbroke farm in Queensland.

On Fridays and Saturdays, diners are in for an extra treat with special servings of beef ribs cooked on the bone and plated at the table with red wine gravy. While Feringgi Grill excels at keeping the menu progressiv­e and in tune with internatio­nal culinary fads, the restaurant also doffs its cap to time- honoured traditions such as classic beef ribs and Yorkshire pudding.

Likewise for desserts, things are kept simple and chic.

The lemon tart, composed of a Britany biscuit base, lemon custard and meringue, might sound convention­al. But be prepared to enjoy the piquant combinatio­n of zesty lemon and sweet creamy custard, presented fashionabl­y in a drinking glass. There is also crepe suzette, a throwback to the 1970s when this French dessert was the rage at every restaurant du jour, proving that everything old eventually becomes new again. The re s t au ra n t ’ s version of this illustriou­s dessert is prepared and served at the table, recalling a different time in a place that has steadfastl­y stood the tests of both food trends and fickle diners. www. shangri- la. com/ penang/rasasayang­resort

Feringgi Grill excels at keeping the menu progressiv­e and in tune with internatio­nal culinary fads.

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