INDIGO, CHEONG FATT TZE MANSION

On the first floor of the 19thcentury home of tycoon Cheong Fatt Tze is Indigo restaurant. Architect Laurence Loh conceptualised the dining room to be a confluence of East and West, with poetic interpretations from artists, architects, designers and a writer who contributed painted backdrops, ethnic-inspired fabric installations, lanterns and artefacts.

Meanwhile, executive chef Beh Weng Chia, a Le Cordon Bleu San Francisco-graduate and Penang native, helms the kitchen. Having criss-crossed the globe for a decade, Beh’s culinary nous combines French and Japanese techniques.

Since August last year, the restaurant has provided its guests with a steady stream of creative dishes including the bestselling Salted Egg Grouper with torched octopus and squid ink risotto.

Dining here is a delight, with sunlight streaming through the stained glass and elevating the entire experience. The same may be said for the sea urchin and extra virgin olive oil, which is finely worked into a bed of capellini, with salmon roe adding delicate bursts of sea flavours (RM98). The Water Jambu Salad is dressed with tempura squid, dried cuttlefish, peanuts, fresh herbs and pomelo dressing (RM36).

Perhaps the strongest suit displayed by the chef is his adroit finish on his Wagyu sirloin, which receives a charcoal sear as its finishing touch. The same effect on the rack of lamb with garlic miso makes it tender enough to swallow without chewing, with trailing aromas of smoke. Desserts receive local riffs of jasmine tea, pandan and jackfruit, which are then worked into a combination of panna cotta, crumble and pudding, leaving one wholly wistful over an eclectic parade of textures and tastes. www.cheongfatttzemansion.com. ≠

Dining here is a delight, with sunlight streaming through the stained glass and elevating the entire experience.