INDIGO, CHEONG FATT TZE MAN­SION

Robb Report (Malaysia) - - Savour - Pho­tos LAW SOO PHYE

On the first floor of the 19th­cen­tury home of ty­coon Cheong Fatt Tze is Indigo restau­rant. Ar­chi­tect Lau­rence Loh con­cep­tu­alised the din­ing room to be a con­flu­ence of East and West, with po­etic in­ter­pre­ta­tions from artists, ar­chi­tects, de­sign­ers and a writer who con­trib­uted painted back­drops, eth­nic-in­spired fabric in­stal­la­tions, lanterns and arte­facts.

Mean­while, ex­ec­u­tive chef Beh Weng Chia, a Le Cor­don Bleu San Fran­cisco-grad­u­ate and Pe­nang na­tive, helms the kitchen. Hav­ing criss-crossed the globe for a decade, Beh’s culi­nary nous com­bines French and Ja­panese tech­niques.

Since Au­gust last year, the restau­rant has pro­vided its guests with a steady stream of creative dishes in­clud­ing the best­selling Salted Egg Grouper with torched oc­to­pus and squid ink risotto.

Din­ing here is a de­light, with sun­light stream­ing through the stained glass and el­e­vat­ing the en­tire ex­pe­ri­ence. The same may be said for the sea urchin and ex­tra vir­gin olive oil, which is finely worked into a bed of capellini, with sal­mon roe adding del­i­cate bursts of sea flavours (RM98). The Wa­ter Jambu Salad is dressed with tem­pura squid, dried cut­tle­fish, peanuts, fresh herbs and pomelo dress­ing (RM36).

Per­haps the strong­est suit dis­played by the chef is his adroit fin­ish on his Wagyu sir­loin, which re­ceives a char­coal sear as its fin­ish­ing touch. The same ef­fect on the rack of lamb with gar­lic miso makes it ten­der enough to swal­low with­out chew­ing, with trail­ing aro­mas of smoke. Desserts re­ceive lo­cal riffs of jas­mine tea, pan­dan and jack­fruit, which are then worked into a com­bi­na­tion of panna cotta, crum­ble and pud­ding, leav­ing one wholly wist­ful over an eclec­tic pa­rade of tex­tures and tastes. www.cheong­fatttze­man­sion.com. ≠

Din­ing here is a de­light, with sun­light stream­ing through the stained glass and el­e­vat­ing the en­tire ex­pe­ri­ence.

From above: Indigo Restau­rant; the uni-anointed capellini. Fac­ing page: smoky aro­mas and a juicy fin­ish from the Wagyu sir­loin.

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