Robb Report (Malaysia)

TUSCAN TEMPTATION­S

Savour At Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur, chef Mario Cittadini showcases traditiona­l modern Italian cuisine through an effortless blend of flavours and technical complexity.

- May - 2 017 By Jennifer Choo

Cucina Italiana ( Italian cuisine) is one of the finest in the world, with a history stretching back thousands of years and a culture that still celebrates cooking and eating as an art form. Chef Mario Cittadini, a keeper of the flame, honed his skills to express the dishes of his native Tuscany in new ways – as chef and co-owner of the Michelin-starred Il Postale restaurant in Perugia, Italy.

Since 2009, Cittadini has been working at top establishm­ents in Asia like the Mandarin Oriental, Taipei and Singapore where he delights guests with creations that balance traditiona­l Italian cooking with the culinary excitement demanded at fine dining restaurant­s. For an all-too-brief four days, Cittadini brought a taste of Italy to Kuala Lumpur at the Mandarin Grill. The evening of fine cuisine from Il Belpaese was expertly paired with beautiful Italian wines chosen by head sommelier Gabriele rizzardi from villa Cafaggio Wines.

A festive aperitif of Abdreola verv Preseco set the stage for the first two courses - lightly smoked Boston lobster, pear, turnip and miso consomme, and seared Hokkaido scallops, bottarga, braised romaine lettuce with passion fruit. Light and well-balanced, Cittadini underlined his culinary fundamenta­ls of respecting the ingredient­s with both courses. While homely carbohydra­tes form the bedrock of Italian

Since 2009, Cittadini has been working at top establishm­ents in Asia.

cooking, Cittadini eschewed the potential for stodginess with a feather-light touch. A single Tortelli served with a parmesan emulsion, black truffle and caviar presented the perfect mouthful, while the risotto, flavoured with Jerusalem artichokes, green apple and truffle, exemplifie­d refined comfort food.

However, Cittadini saved his ace for the main course with a divine roasted lamb loin accompanie­d by spring onion oil, parsnips and fava bean ragout. Not to be eclipsed, Rizzardi complement­ed the robust flavours with a bold cabernet Savignon from Cafaggio basilica Del Cor taccio . Rounding off the meal with vanilla panna cotta, wild berries and burnt milk ice cream, Cittadini reimagined this most Italian of desserts as a fantastica­l garden both in ingredient­s and presentati­on.

Life is indeed sweet in Cittadini’s culinary universe. www. mandarinor­iental.com ≠

Life is indeed sweet in Cittadini’s culinary universe.

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