122 Elegance in Motion
As one of the oldest watchmakers in the world, Vacheron Constantin has long nurtured the spirit of haute horlogerie within its manufacture.
Vacheron Constantin nurtures the spirit of high horology at its manufacture in Geneva.
For over two and a half centuries, Vacheron Constantin has created incredible timepieces that have adorned historical personages and a lengthy roster of royalty and aristocracy.
In this, Vacheron Constantin’s mastery of the art of watchmaking has wrought objets d’art and unique treasures that attest to humanity’s most ingenuous mechanical solutions. In 2015, its Reference 57260 wrested the mantle of the world’s most complicated mechanical watch with an aweinspiring 57 complications.
Underpinning this remarkable track record of exceptional timepieces are the words of Francois Constantin, who is widely recognised as the business acumen during the watchmaker’s nascent years. Constantin’s letter in French to Jacques Barthelemy Vacheron – the grandson of founder Jean-marc Vacheron – exhorted the team to “continue to be better if possible, which is always possible”.
In August 2004, a new headquarters for Vacheron Constantin was inaugurated at Plan-le- Ouates, in the outlying district of Geneva. Here, in the ultra-futuristic halls and workshops, 430 members of staff honour the patrimony that began with its founder Jean-marc – an independent watchmaker who unveiled the company’s first complication in 1770. Precious arts used in finishing timepieces are very much alive at Vacheron Constantin. Enamelling – which confers greater protection and beautiful colours to the dial – co-exists with guillochage in which fine lines are engraved upon metallic surfaces. It takes an apprentice up to three months to master the rudiments of perlage – a decorative technique that suffuses movement plates and bridges with repeatedly symmetrical brushed metal motifs to refract light. This idea of master to student persists in a way that is almost unchanged across the centuries, as the final flourish in a timepiece may only be ascertained by human emotion and sensitivities.
In Geneva’s Saint- Gervais district sits Maison Vacheron Constantin on Quai de I’ile. This handsome building, commissioned by Francois’s nephew Jean-francois over 140 years ago, houses the
Constantin exhorted the team to “continue to be better if possible, which is always possible”.
brand archives and its legacy of watchmaking through the display of tools such as an engraver and a beveller. Aficionados will find some of the earliest examples of striking mechanisms by Vacheron Constantin from the early 19th century and the Chronometre Royal which was produced in 1907 and found great purchase in the South American market. Its resistance to high humidity, altitude and extreme temperature fluctuations made it highly sought after.
It is also here, at 7 Quai de I’ile, where a future cabinotiers’ workshop will be established, devoted to fulfilling special orders for clients who wish to possess unique timepieces.
Its present- day timepieces, which include this year’s tribute to astronomy, become Vacheron Constantin’s latest benchmark in crafting mechanical precision. The brand’s artistic director Christian Selmoni highlights the Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, which possesses an astounding precision of 400 years with its perpetual calendar. This unique piece – in 45mm white gold – was developed across five years by a dedicated master watchmaker. It has 23 horological complications across two faces and combines three gear trains: tropical, sidereal and civil. Despite its 514-part construction, the movement is a mere 8.7mm thick and is equipped with six barrels ensuring three weeks of power reserve. On this one piece, the user may visualise the dance of the planets and cosmos, and note the occurrence of high and low tides, among many other functions. A transparent sky chart of two superimposed discs offers a
Its present-day timepieces become Vacheron Constantin’s latest benchmark in crafting mechanical precision.
view of the Milky Way and constellations as well as the celestial dome.
When asked about what it takes to continually unveil timepieces of such complexity, Selmoni’s answer is all seriousness. “You have quite a lot of work to do; in terms of design – the timepiece should be strictly classical and rooted in Vacheron’s timeless elegance. For the designer, the biggest challenge is how to present 23 complications and still have it readable. It takes two years of work with the engineers to reach that level. In our quest for precision, we have also employed modern methods such as laser engraving on the sapphire crystal and positioning luminova dots. A hundred years ago, it would not be possible to achieve this level of threedimensionality – perhaps through the glyptic art of carving rock crystal – but it wouldn’t be the same. The idea for us is to mix modern technology and traditional craft.” www.vacheron- constantin.com ≠
“The biggest challenge is how to present 23 complications and still have it readable.”