Tatler Dining Malaysia

IN THE MOOD

A passion project of Bombay-born restaurate­ur Erina Pereira, Frangipaan­i in Damansara Heights takes us back to a bygone era of British colonial elegance and inviting Anglo-indian cuisine, writes Tania Jayatilaka

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Walking through the doors of Frangipaan­i feels like coming back to a second home you never knew you had. A regallooki­ng telescope stands unobtrusiv­ely by tall colonial windows. Walls adorned with hand-drawn maps of India surround a tastefully designed dining space. Outside on the balcony, well-shaded tables and chairs spread out evenly, flanked by a foliate frangipani bush and lush greenery.

Ensconced in a setting as warm and inviting as this with a tangy-sweet mango lassi in hand, the starry-eyed inner child in me wonders: if this is Frangipaan­i’s intended effect? If so, then Erina Pereira has surpassed her objective.

“Everything about Frangipaan­i just creates that feeling of being at home again, doesn’t it?” Erina asks as though reading my mind.

The wife of The Olive Tree Group founder and managing director, Leslie Gomez, Erina had never fully realised her love of cooking until after she got married. The decision to open Frangipaan­i, she says, was spurred by her F&B entreprene­ur husband and her passion for food—specifical­ly, Anglo-indian recipes native to Goa.

“The first thing I do when I enter the kitchen is look at the faces of my chefs to gauge their moods and vibes,” Erina says. “I strongly believe your state of mind ultimately affects the outcome of the food you prepare.” Pairing her infectious ‘never give up’ attitude with a keen eye for detail, Erina encourages her team of chefs to ask questions often, take notes always, do their research thoroughly and let their creativity flow in the kitchen.

A glance at the thickening crowd of diners here tells me that Erina’s customers share her passion for Indian cuisine and, if given the chance, would linger as long as they could in the comforting atmosphere she’s created.

“Everything about Frangipaan­i creates that feeling of being at home again”

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