Understanding the needs of your newly-turfed lawn
A BEAUTIFULLY lush and green lawn is the dream of many a homeowner. Lawns are often part of a garden’s landscape design as well.
However, after planting a new lawn, the job of maintenance can be quite difficult, particularly for those ill-experienced in landscaping and gardening work.
Some new gardeners may also be short of the time required to properly care for a lawn.
The fact is that any landscaping using spot planting of grass may present worse weed problems. Carpet planting normally means less weed invasion, but only after half a year.
How much effort you put in at the beginning, especially, will determine whether you get a smooth and green lawn or a patchwork of weeds.
This week, we will look at how to promote a dense and healthy turf cover that’s harder for weeds to invade. Cut higher
Many gardeners cut the grass too close to the ground, allowing new weed seeds to germinate and invade the exposed areas. Adjusting the cutting height may reduce such problems for the turf. Pearl grass is difficult to maintain once the area has been invaded by weeds. Fertiliser
While chicken dung is a favourite natural fertiliser, we need to understand that unprocessed chicken dung may actually come along with a lot of weed seeds.
Therefore, avoid applying chicken dung to prevent this problem. During the rainy season, it is best to use NPK pellets on the lawn. When applying, ensure that this is done in a uniform manner, with the fertiliser spread evenly in different directions. Weeding
If only broadleaf weeds, and not weed grasses, start to invade the lawn, we can remove them by hand, making sure to take the roots out as well. When dealing with notorious weeds such as Paspalum and Lalang, always pull the weeds out by hand as soon as they appear. Chemical solutions
If trying to use a chemical remedy, get a specialised weed killer such as those by Yate. Always test a new chemical on a small area or patch first, lest the chemical kill both the weeds and the lawn grass you have planted. Fungus
Some fungi live in the ground and can cause the grass to die out in patches. The treatment is by drenching the soil with fungicide. Be careful when using copper fungicide, as too concentrated a solution would kill the grass you’ve planted too. Urine burns
Do not let your pet dog urinate on a good green lawn as too much concentrated nitrogenous fertiliser will actually burn the leaves. If you spot your petting doing so, spray the area with water to alleviate the problem. Lawn grubs
These larvae will eat the roots of the grass, causing it to die in patches. Treat the soil by drenching it with an insecticide such as Dimethoate. Be sure to follow the chemical label strictly for safety. Handy garden aids
Many garden aids are available nowadays and these can be a great help especially for new gardeners.
Seed raising mixes – These are ready adjusted mixes with some fertiliser to allow for good germination of seeds. We can choose the right formulation for the particular type of plants.
Potting mixes – It is a common practice to use the best potting mix to plant tender flowers in order to ensure flowering at the desired time. For instance, adjusted potting mixes for bromeliads, cacti, and orchids can be very specific for the needs of the plants.
Liquid fertilisers – Many new brands of fertiliser come in packs that can be applied directly. These also specifically target plants such as roses or orchids for instance. Others come in mixes.
General ‘killers’ – Gardening requires us to be armed with these chemicals for weed, insect, and fungus control. Gardening tools
The following are useful tools to have around for specific jobs in the garden.
Secateurs – There are three main types of secateurs – ratchet, anvil, and bypass. Extendable pruning secateurs are useful for dealing with taller plants. Go for quality rather than pricing.
Budding tools – You cannot use an ordinary knife for the job of budding. A budding knife is specially-designed tool with a sharp cutting edge and peeling tool at one end. A razor sharp cutting knife is equally useful for small jobs.
Hoses – Hook these up to the tap and spray on fertiliser to feed the selected plants without much waste. A water hose will also ensure ease of watering work. A good extendable reel is best to reach the furthest ends of the garden.
Hand shovel and fork – Gardening without these basic aids will make digging and planting difficult tasks. Here I must emphasise the need to ensure you invest in tools with good handles to do a proper job.
Saw and cutters – The pruning saw is necessary for cutting jobs that secateurs cannot do. Normally, Malaysians would have a parang or some sort of larger knife in the garden to cut branches or stems. A chainsaw is an added advantage for heavy jobs, or an axe could also be handy.
I hope local gardeners will try to ensure these important tools and aids are available at home.
Do send me an email if you have questions, comments, or suggestions.
Happy gardening.