Thousands scratching a living in Myanmar’s storied ‘land of rubies’
MOGOK, MYANMAR: Every week Aye Min Htun prays he will find the ruby that changes his life, one of thousands of people scratching a living in Myanmar’s mines set to gain little from the end of US sanctions on the militarydominated industry.
For centuries emperors, kings and warlords have vied for control over the valley of Mogok, north of Mandalay, once known as the “land of rubies” for its extraordinary treasure trove of jewels.
Its unique ‘pigeon-blood’ stones are the most expensive coloured gems in the world – last year the so- called Sunrise Ruby sold for a record US$ 30.3 million, over US$1 million a carat.
Myanmar produces more than 80 per cent of the world’s rubies, yet decades of isolation under the former military junta means the industry remains cloaked in mystery.
But the focus on it is sharpening.
In October, the US lifted sanctions barring imports of the rubies in recognition of the country’s shift towards democracy under the new government of Aung San Suu Kyi.
Experts fear any boom will end up lining the pockets of military men and their friends who control much of the gem trade.
Aye Min Htun earns less than US$ 200 a month working in a small, open- cast mine on the valley floor, but if he found a valuable ruby his commission could set him up for life.
“My dream is to set up a business if I am successful in mining,” the 19-year- old told AFP on a rare recent visit by journalists to Mogok’s mines.
“I believe in spirits...I pray they will give me a big, good- quality stone.” Behind him a dozen men use high-pressure hoses to dislodge earth from the side of the crater, which is then sorted on wooden tables by barefoot workers.
It is dangerous work – landslides are a frequent hazard.
“I’m always reminding the mine workers to be careful...They are just kids,” said manager Pauksi, who goes by one name.
Every few minutes deep rumbles rise from the belly of the earth.
They come from dynamite detonated in the next mine, blasting shafts hundreds of feet into the hillside.
Production in Mogok has surged since the mid-90s when the former junta first allowed in private companies, bringing with them heavy machinery and more intensive mining methods.
In 2003 the US imposed its first round of sanctions barring imports of gems from Myanmar in a bid to starve the military government of funds.
Today the Mogok valley is pockmarked with mines, but locals see little of the profits.
The industry is overseen by the Myanmar Gems Enterprise ( MGE), a state- owned enterprise run by former military men that was taken off the US sanctions list in May. MGE both holds investments in mines and regulates them, giving it a strong hand over a lucrative sector. — AFP