Keeping the art of folding the tengkolok
ALOR SETAR: Tengkolok, also known as ‘destar’, is the traditional Malay male headgear made from a long ‘songket’ cloth folded and tied in a particular style.
The general term for the different styles is known as ‘solek’.
In the olden days, the ‘solek’ of a ‘tengkolok’ symbolises the status of the wearer in the social hierarchy.
Today, it is typically worn by the groom during Malay wedding ceremonies and by royalty during royal ceremonies.
The traditional headgear is still beloved today and there are quite a few people skilled in the art of making different ‘solek’ for ‘tengkolok’. They are called ‘penyolek’.
One of them is Mohd Yatim Mustaffa, 40, from Kampung Peremba here.
His love for fashioning the ‘tengkolok’ into traditional and modern ‘solek’ started while he was in his 20s, after joining several silat competitions across the state. Learning the skill
“I used to perform silat at wedding ceremonies and it was then that I noticed the appeal of the ‘tengkolok’. It was more than a headgear to me; it was a symbol of the warrior and leader in a person.
“The end product may be easy to put on, but making it requires skill and creativity.
If you don’t master the technique, it won’t turn out at all,” he said.
He learned by ‘reverse engineering’
He bought a tengkolok in the ‘Dendam Tak Sudah’ form for RM40, deconstructed the ‘solek’ and tried to fold it again in the same fashion.
It was harder than he thought.
“I wanted to give up but forced myself to keep on trying till I succeeded,” he said.
He then refined his techniques by reading up books on ‘tengkolok’.
Today, with 26 years of experience under his belt, he is able to come up with his own ‘solek’ inspired by his observation of nature.
“I also enrolled in courses on tying and folding the ‘tanjak’ and ‘tengkolok’ in Taman Budaya, Pumpong here to further learn the art.
“I also enjoy old Malay movies with characters that wear the ‘tengkolok’.
I would try to recreate the ‘tengkolok’ used in the movies based on their respective characters,” said Mohd Yatim, who also studied the art under Pak Mus, a well-known ‘tengkolok’ maker there.
Mohd Yatim receives orders for ‘tengkolok’ from the palace, wedding boutiques and individuals.
His wife Mariah Shahban, a skilled seamstress, helps him deal with the volumes of orders received.
He would receive up to 500 orders during the school holidays, a popular time for weddings.
According to Mohd Yatim, there are two types of ‘solek’.
The traditional one is those worn during royal ceremonies
I used to perform silat at wedding ceremonies and it was then that I noticed the appeal of the ‘tengkolok’. It was more than a headgear to me; it was a symbol of the warrior and leader in a person. — Mohd Yatim Mustaffa, ‘Tengkolok’ maker
with different forms according to state, while the second one was those worn for ceremonies like Malay weddings and during silat performances. It’s in the tie and the fold. “We can see this during royal ceremonies where the ruler of different states wear different ‘solek’.
A ‘tengkolok’ of unique ‘solek’ based on the creativity of the ‘penyolek’ is worn as an accessory by commoners,” he explained.
Due to his outstanding expertise and knowledge in the art of ‘tengkolok’-making, Mohd Yatim has made a name for himself among those in the trade and the palace staff handling protocol.
“I am grateful for the volume of orders coming in for my work.
The largest order I had ever received was during the Sultan of Kedah, Tuanku Abdul Halim Muadzam Shah Golden Jubilee celebration in 2008.
I had to produce 152 ‘tengkolok’ and burned the midnight oil for two nights in a row to complete the order,” he said.
Aside from the traditional ‘tengkolok’, Mohd Yatim also produces ‘tengkolok’ of solek inspired by the animal and plant kingdom.
“I have created over 100 ‘solek’ of ‘tengkolok’ such as ‘Gagak di Rimba’ which was inspired by a bird amidst the bushes. ‘Gading Laksamana’ and ‘Gading Temasek’ were inspired by an elephant’s tusk,” he revealed.
As for the ‘solek’ of traditional ‘tengkolok’, the names and the forms are not changeable. These include the ‘Dendam Tak Sudah’, ‘Tanjak Temalong Budu’, ‘Tengkolok Putera Kayangan’ and ‘Tanjak Tebang Selat’.
Mohd Yatim hopes the younger generation would learn the art form so the knowledge could be passed on for generations to come. — Bernama