Animal prints turn to stone at Roberto Cavalli for Milan Fashion Week
MILAN: Animal prints are in the DNA of Italian fashion brand Roberto Cavalli, but this week, designer Fausto Puglisi turned the animal to mineral.
Puglisi turned his gaze to marble for his new collection at Milan Fashion Week, a new twist for the flamboyant brand known for its skin-baring, eyepopping styles.
Gone were the brand’s signature leopard, cheetah, zebra and python prints. Puglisi instead transformed those intricate designs into veins of marble in compelling grey, beige and white hues, and even green, mustard yellow and amethyst.
“I was very tired of animal print,” the creative director said backstage after the show. “Zebra is 20 years ago.”
If the animal skins appeared to have escaped the clutch of Roberto Cavalli, they reappeared Friday at Blumarine, where newly named designer Walter Chiapponi opened his show with a very glam (faux) leopard coat and chose leopard tights as his go-to accessory.
More than 50 brands are showing off Fall/Winter 20242025 women’s collections in Milan this week, attended by over 100,000 fashion buyers, media and brand representatives.
Whether on oversize puffer jackets, slinky dresses, trenchcoat or minis, Puglisi’s choice to represent marble was a refreshing departure for the label, sacrificing none of its flashy, sexy spirit but adding a touch of Baroque decadence.
Puglisi said he was inspired by his personal collection of antique marble.
“I love it to death,” the Sicilian designer said of the colourful marble seen throughout Italy, whether in villas of Pompeii or the Baroque churches in Rome.
An inspiration board backstage included photos of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul – both decadent in their abundant use of ancient marble.
Puglisi said at first he was concerned that the marble would impart a cold feel to the clothing. He was proved wrong.
“Marble is very cold, but this is hot,” he said.
If Cavalli managed to make cold hot, labels Max Mara, Fendi and Prada brought cozy back to the runway.