Catch the wind
Romance and movement form the basis of the Michael Kors Spring 2016 presentation.
THE client is very much front and centre for Michael Kors. He’s one of the rare designers nowadays that still invites clients to runway shows.
During the international editors’ press conference with Kors the day before his runway show in New York last week, he was asked about how shows were becoming customer inclusive.
“When you talk about consumers being included, there are people who are fashion fans, they love the hubbub and theatre of it. And then there are women who actually want to know what they should wear,” explained Kors.
“A lot of designers do shows but don’t give notes; there’s nothing on the seats. I always give notes because the women who are in my audience are shopping. So, they’re circling. The minute the show is livestreamed, all of our stores get emails from clients; they say they want look number 4 or 9, I think it’s a great way to bring the audience in. As much as I love livestream, there’s nothing like seeing it up close.”
Which is why his collections always have clothes that are easy to wear. They either work as fabulous additions to an existing wardrobe or as investment pieces.
The Spring 2016 collection is no different. It carries the theme of “earthy elegance”, something of a contradiction in terms.
“In today’s world, you never hear the word elegance. When people think elegant, they think formal and urban. I was much more intrigued by the idea of something earthy, tactile, texture. We kept thinking of women who have earthy elegance, artistic women like Georgia O’Keefe and Elsa Perretti. Those kind of women have the balance between the two things.
“I think softness and feminism are very important to this collection. I am definitely not a designer who frequently uses ruffles. There is not a lot of lingerie details but I love the idea of sexy and moving, without being tight. The sexiest thing is when something slides and moves. if you think the skirt will come unwrapped or naturally fall off, it’s a lot sexier than a tight dress.
“Even tailoring has a feminine edge. I’m convinced you can be covered up but be sexy.” This element of subtle sexiness was seen in the flowy pieces, clothes that could be wrapped and tied.
Slashed skirts, car wash pleats that swayed when you walk, the ease of movement, the slide of material possibly slipping off a shoulder, these are the sum of the collection.
Tailoring was kept relaxed with suiting that was light and unlined in linen gauze, and a romantic softness was seen in the long skirts, poetic sleeves, ruffles, floral embroideries and chantilly lace.
There was a short dress of textured python on silk and in contrast a bright red dress liberally sprinkled with hand embroided flowers.
Colours ran the gamut from black, white and lapis to crimson and sienna. Then there were the shades of vanilla, sky, straw, nutmeg and sand.
Another key point in the collection are straps. “We’re playing with a lot of different straps. In general, straps are the key word, whether it’s hanging from the sleeve of blouses or bags; things that catch the wind.”
He also said that there were no sequins, and that embroidery was the interesting part. “The embroidery is all about texture, chiffon that’s been frayed and embroidered onto linen or silk gauze. Very soft and feminine.”
A favourite look of mine was a perforated suede coat. According to Kors, he’s convinced the world is casual and every city in the world is very casual. That is why he thinks you need to have selected items that can instantly dress you up.
“Jackets and coats are super important as investment pieces. Run out of your house in yoga clothes – which unfortunately people do all around the world – and you can throw on this fabulous perforated coat and suddenly look and feel like a million dollars.”
Another point he made – the importance of sleeves. As he humorously said, women travel all over the world and question why aren’t there any sleeves. So yes, his collection has plenty of sleeves, and very romantic sleeves too.
Romance it seems, is an important element of the collection, and we can agree with Kors when he said, “I think the world needs a little romance.”
And that, you can definitely find plenty of in this collection.