The new pretty
As fashion embraces the unconventional, trends are turning their attention away from the mainstream. The current look is individualistic, unusual and often seen in a clash of colours and styles. A different perspective of aesthetic norms has now emerged a
CLASHING, lurid colours paired with over-the-top embellishments. Designs that are both gawky and ungainly. Clothing cuts of which would baffle even the most seasoned industry observer.
Style disaster? No, those are some of the designer looks spotted on runways. From New York to Paris, Milan and London, a change in favoured aesthetics has given rise to the trend of unconventional fashion, which some may even deem “ugly”.
But ugliness is subjective. Like beauty, it is in the eye of the beholder. So the idea feeds on elements perceived as the antithesis to being pretty: awkwardness, excessiveness and clunkiness.
The question is, why? Malaysian designer Khoon Hooi thinks that it is only natural for the industry to want to move forward in this way. He explains that such creations are a form of innovation.
He does not agree with the label though: “I wouldn’t call it ugly, but people are definitely accepting designs that are more unusual than the ordinary. It presents the character of the wearer, stylewise.”
According to fashion stylist Sarah Saw, the trend was seen emerging last year and has definitely caused a sensation. She points out that while the aesthetic may seem ugly at first, it is memorable – which is good.
“Fashion is evolving once again and just like beauty, gone are the days where being flawless is seen as ‘beautiful’ or ‘pretty’. It’s all about challenging one’s perspective by stepping over the boundaries and breaking the rules,” she states.
The notion of ugliness in fashion is however, not something new. Belgian designer Dries Van Noten was quoted as saying in a 2012 interview that “nothing is so boring as something beautiful”.
As Van Noten explained, he will often start a collection by identifying colours he does not like and putting them to use. It is apparently his way of creating something surprising, which he prefers.
“The investigation of ugliness is, to me, more interesting than the bourgeois idea of beauty,” Miuccia Prada said in 2013. “And why? Because ugly is human. It touches the bad and the dirty side of people.”
In the now
The rise of unconventional fashion is now more evident than ever. Surprisingly, it has gained popularity among the consumers of different markets, and not just industry insiders.
“It was when Alessandro Michele of Gucci turned the brand’s direction towards eccentricity that people began realising that it is actually okay to look ‘crazy’,” says Aizat Aidid, fashion editor of Malay magazine Glam.
“Consuelo Castiglioni, the ex-creative director of Marni, and Miuccia Prada – they have also challenged the way women dress. Instead of looking pretty head to toe, these designers are presenting a new way of dressing.”
“Several pioneering designers and artists have been exploring ideas of the trend. Maison Margiela, Walter Van Beirendonck, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto, for example,” notes Malaysian designer Joe Chia.
“Brands have also been rather successful in educating young consumers on the trend. Through the use of social media, they have made it not only acceptable, but fashion-forward as well,” he adds.
As it is, the need to stand out has driven the spike in unconventional fashion. People just don’t want to be seen as “normal” anymore, and everyone is going to extremes to set themselves apart on digital platforms like Instagram.
“Fashion was at a low ebb with no clear direction and brands were probably at a loss on how to sell ideas to the smarter millennial generation,” explains Cheong Phin.
Phin, who is a copy editor with Harper’s Bazaar Malaysia, thinks that the industry needed a strong fix – and the explosion of shock, boldness and wackiness provided a breath of fresh air to the millennial generation.
“Fashion is now all about creating attention for social media content and translating it into increased business. Ugly chic is definitely the new pretty but classic prettiness will always remain,” he adds.
So it seems that whether unconventional or not, the trend is staying put. And regardless of what any one individual thinks, designs that fit the trend have a character that speaks for itself.