Bavarian experience
you can learn so much about Germany’s history and culture just by strolling around the city of Munich.
MUNICH or in native German, Munchen (near the monks’ place), is the birthplace of global names BMW, Bayern Munich football club and Oktoberfest.
The capital of Bavaria, one of 16 states in Germany, indeed needs no introduction. Left almost in ruins after World War II, the city rebuilt itself and is today a wealthy metropolis of 1.5 million.
The dark days when it was the cradle of Nazi movement did nothing to take away the shine of this remarkable city of history, tenacity and vibrancy.
In 1913, a young penniless Adolf Hitler moved to Munich from his native Austria to try his luck as an artist but later rose to become the fuhrer that would wreak unimaginable destruction, suffering and deaths on millions.
As a local wryly remarked: “Unfortunately, Hitler had no talent in art.”
During a familiarisation trip organised by Trafalgar last November, we heard from our Polish tour director Kate Poloczanska-Komar that Bavarians, like Austrians, are very reserved when it comes to the difficult subject of the Nazis.
“Unlike northern Germany, where people talk about it with every possible detail,” she said.
Still, much as the world was repulsed by the atrocities, nobody could or should ignore the past, no matter how horrible and painful it was.
A profound reminder of this can be found in the present-day memorial in Dachau, 20km north-west of Munich. Opened in 1933, it was a prototype of the harrowing concentration camp.
As our group strolled around the historic Old Town in the heart of Munich led by Daniela Kammermeier, our cheery guide turned solemn as she pointed out a trail of gold-painted steps behind the imposing Feldherrnhalle (Field Marshalls’ Hall), the monument commissioned in 1841 by King Ludwig I.
“During the Third Reich (193345), people used to bypass the Nazi memorial set up there to avoid doing the mandatory Hitler salute,” she explained.
The lane nicknamed Shirkers’ Alley ironically now stands as homage to the bravery of ordinary folk against an evil regime.
Immortalised in bronze on the ground of Ludwig Maximilian University of Munich, off the tourist track, is another potent symbol – resistance pamphlets in memory of the non-violent, intellectual White Rose group led by Hans and Sophie Scholl. The siblings were later executed by the Nazis.
Munich, however, has infinitely more to fuel any visitors, living up to its reputation as a city of sophistication and old-world charm, of art, culture and history. Many of its museums offer free or one euro for entrance on Sundays.
The walking tour around the Brienner Quartier is an awe-inspiring journey of magnificent architecture and classical buildings, churches and palaces. Among these famed landmarks, the Residenz is the largest city palace in Germany.
Feel the energy of the Aldstadt (Old Town), a mecca teeming with people, trendy eateries, offices and a veritable mix of modern and traditional shops, some of which have served the rich and nobility.
We checked out Ed Meier, a homegrown bespoke shoe shop founded in the 16th century and now run by the 14th generation!
Then there’s the majestic Cafe Luitpold, started in 1888, where guests can not only stop for a breather but savour its story in the mini-museum within its premises. To accompany that aromatic cup of coffee, try the Bavarian specialty prinzregententorte, a rich chocolate layer cake. You don’t have to pronounce it to enjoy it!
The industrial manufacturing giant Siemens is headquartered in Palais Ludwig Ferdinand, a 19th-century palace added with a modern extension only in 2017.
At the bustling no-car zone Marienplatz (St Mary’s Square), the musical figurines of Glockenspiel re-enact tales from Munich’s history at 11am, noon and 5pm daily. Since 1908, it has delighted spectators with a 12-minute act that unfolds in the tower balcony of the neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall). There’s no 5pm show from November to February.
To catch a spectacular view of the Munich skyline, ride the lift to the observation deck atop the town hall’s 85m-high tower.
There’s also Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Dear Lady), Munich’s largest church identifiable by its twin onion domes in a city centre that limits the height of buildings to 99m. One of the mustsee elements in this house of god is the Devil’s Footprint – myth or truth, you be the judge.
Over at Viktualienmarkt (victual is Latin for food), which began in 1807 and is characterised by a cultural maypole in the Bavarian colours of white and blue, 140 shops and stalls sell a smorgasbord of food, fresh produce and bric-abrac. The market has a beer garden to boot.
Amid chestnut trees and arty fountains, this bellygod had her fill of pork knuckle and weisswurst (Bavarian white sausage), washed down with beer, before coffee and pastry under a chandelier in a stall! Divine.
But a trip to the lively city that hosts the annual Oktoberfest, the world’s biggest beer festival, will be incomplete without going to its popular beer halls.
We went to three centrally located in the Old Town. These taverns-cum-restaurants are generally boisterous and brimming with a convivial spirit, perfect for shouting prost! as you clink glasses with your mates.
We had a pre-dinner pint and pretzels at Hofbrauhaus – one of the biggest and oldest (over 400 years old) breweries in Bavaria. We also feasted on Bavarian fare at Donisl (Hacker-Pschorr) and the rustic Zum Franziskaner (Lowenbrau).
Hofbrau, Lowenbrau and Hacker-Pschorr as well as Paulaner, Spaten and Augustiner are the “big six” breweries represented at Oktoberfest.
After the hustle and bustle of the city, we dialled back and took a near-two-hour drive up winding roads to the Bavarian Alps, a scenic route with wonderful views of the natural surrounds.
Our destination was the idyllic Berchtesgaden (population: 7,000), the German mountain resort popular with hikers and skiers.
As Poloczanska-Komar liked to joke, the locals learnt to ski before they learnt to walk!
We had a leisurely lunch under cool 11°C weather in the village, which is a half-hour drive to Salzburg, Austria.
Only some 80 years ago, these pristine alpine hills were where Hitler and his cohorts plotted their nefarious schemes, operating a second seat of power alongside Berlin in the Obersalzberg resort near Berchtesgaden.
After the war, many of the properties linked to the oppressive leadership were destroyed but a handful survived. Most notably among them is the Eagle’s Nest (or Kehlsteinhaus), a costly vanity project completed under extreme conditions by several thousand workers atop Mount Kehlstein in 1938.
Intended for members of the Nazi Party, it was, however, hardly used by Hitler who hated heights. It is now a cafe.
In 1999, the Dokumentation Obersalzberg museum was opened, providing vital information about the area as well as its connection to Hitler’s National Socialist rule.
Such exhibitions remind people of the horrors of war and the depths of brutality that humanity is capable of. Unfortunately, the world has not succeeded very well in learning its lesson.