Yearning for the old George Town

I WAS born in George Town in the 1950s and I am privileged to live in this idyllic island of Penang.

The rich heritage of the island was bestowed on us by the intrepid immigrants and early settlers here. The enduring and rich cultural footprint they left behind has led to George Town being accorded Unesco heritage status. The big question is: “Who actually benefits from this status?”

Behind the rich heritage of George Town are its ordinary residents. Putting George Town on the world tourism map does not benefit anyone who has no business in the tourism industry. The heritage draw card has attracted a greater influx of tourists that is making the island so crowded during holidays and peak tourist seasons.

Getting around the inner city is now frustrating as outstation vehicles and tour buses join in and contribute to the local traffic congestion. Motorists driving through the popular tourist spots in the inner city area have to be more vigilant as they will definitely encounter eager tourists cycling two or three abreast, some in groups, spilling onto the road while taking selfies.

Compounded by the lower value of the ringgit, the added demands from tourists have pushed up the prices of local delicacies like the popular Penang biscuits and even the simple coconut drink.

Local guides also tend to bring tourists to the popular hawker spots. So nowadays, if the locals want to have their favourite char koay teow, they would have to queue together with the tourists and wait a long time for their food to be served. Also, the price of the regular plate is now more expensive.

During durian season, many locals now cannot afford to have their favourite fruit as it is also priced beyond their means, again outbid by the tourists.

Another alarming change is the disappearance of traditional small businesses. These are usually family-owned businesses which operate out of pre-war shophouses. They used to provide an essential and convenient service during my grandfather’s days.

Since the inception of the heritage status of George Town that has turned the island into a popular tourist destination, rows of pre-war houses in the inner city area have been renovated, converted and refurbished into accommodation facilities. Various businesses like the coffee shop, bakery, cobbler and the ubiquitous motorcycle repair shop have been forced out because of the rising rent or the premises have been taken over by investors counting on the rising tourist demand for food, board and lodging.

Did the people who mooted this proposal to list George Town as a Unesco heritage site have any idea of the full economic implication the status would bring? In places like Barcelona, which also received this Unesco heritage status, the local populace are rueing the day their area was bestowed this “honour”.

Rental and property prices have increased, and residents have been forced out from the inner city due to exorbitant rent. The prices of food and daily necessities for the locals have also risen as a result of tourist demand. There is also a drain on taxpayers’ money as there is an additional burden on local councils to deal with this increased tourist demand on public facilities and parks. George Town is experiencing this, too.

Tourism does not benefit everyone. There is economic growth for some, and a general rise in the cost of living for all.

It has created a dichotomy: businesses and property owners catering to tourists are smiling like Cheshire cats but the general populace of George Town has lost a way of life. It will never be the same again.

Goodbye, old George Town, you were more enjoyable in days gone by, before your Unesco heritage status!

TAN HOCK LIM Penang