Marketing our textiles to the world

“SAYA hadiahkan sesuatu karis dan dua tumba pakaian cara Melayu tiadalah dengan sepertinya hanyalah tanda berkasihan serta berpanjangan selama-lamanya haraplah saya akan diterima Yang Dipertuan Maharaja Yang Maha Mulia barang akan jadi gunanya.” (Translation: “I humbly present a keris and two measures of cloth for the Malay dress as a sign of everlasting affection, and hope they may be of some use to Your Imperial Majesty.”)

The quote above is from a letter written by Engku Temenggung Seri Maharaja (Daing Ibrahim) of Johor to the Emperor of France (Napoleon III) in 1857. The letter shows the importance of cloth or textile as a medium of diplomacy among nations in the past.

The letter was written in the mid-19th century when France’s interest in South-East Asia was primarily focused on Indochina while Johor’s allegiance was firmly with the British government. In it, the Temenggung expresses his greatest praise for Napoleon III in terms of the Emperor’s cordial relations with Queen Victoria.

The use of textile as a gift to establish diplomacy is hardly a foreign concept. In the Ming Imperial Annals, it was recorded in 1403 that: “The eunuch Yin Qing was sent to take an imperial proclamation for the instruction of the countries of Melaka, and confer upon the kings of these countries ‘spangled gold’ silk gauze drapes and parasols, together with patterned fine silks and coloured silks as appropriate.”

It was also recorded that when rulers of Melaka visited China, the envoys were as much trading as diplomatic missions. The Chinese emperor rewarded the Melaka rulers with: “a gold and a jade belt, ceremonial insignia, two saddled horses, 100 ounces of gold, 500 ounces of silver, 400,000 guan of paper money, 2,600 strings of copper cash, 300 bolts of embroidered fine silks, 1,000 bolts of thin silks, and two long sleeved gowns in silks.”

Presenting textiles to one another was a practice that seemed to spiral to the extent that it was able to establish soft power by the presenter. Its purchases and exchanges among and between royalties created demand and supply, hence a new market for this commodity – textiles as gifts. As a result, the world saw an increase in the export of this product. China was always at the winning end of this trade and, for centuries, held the monopoly of silk production.

But textiles have lost their function as mediators of diplomacy even though wives of presidents and prime ministers still wear their traditional attire during official events to reflect their national identity. For example, President Joko Widodo’s wife Iriana wore a kebaya made of Javanese batik to meet former United States President Barack Obama during his visit to Indonesia. Similarly, the wife of Singapore’s prime minister wore a kebaya and selendang made of lace complemented with a beautiful peranakan kerongsang when meeting Obama at the White House.

I do believe we should return to this traditional practice. By doing so, we will not only promote our local textiles but also find new markets overseas for them.

Malaysia is rich in art and culture that we can be proud of. We have our handmade songket, tenun Pahang (pic) and batik. By reviving the practice of presenting textiles as gifts to visiting dignitaries, our local artists would be able to make a better living as well as generate more innovations in their industry.

KHAIRULANWAR RAHMAT Batu Caves, Selangor