Portraying a nation’s image through gastrodiplomacy
GASTRONOMY examines food not only as a cooking process but also from the dimensions of history, philosophy and cultural background.
The Indonesian Gastronomy Association (IGA) and the Center for Gastrodiplomacy Studies at the University of Jember in East Java raised this gastronomic theme in a webinar on July 24, discussing the national strategy of Indonesian gastronomic diplomacy.
This initiative deserves appreciation. Gastronomic diplomacy is different from culinary diplomacy. If the latter places more emphasis on the process of cooking and the art of enjoying food, gastronomy studies the dimensions of history, philosophy and the cultural setting of food. Because of these dimensions, gastronomy is included in the cultural diplomacy cluster in the realm of diplomacy. This is the source of the term “gastrodiplomacy”.
Gastrodiplomacy observer Anna Lipscomb, says in The Yale Review of International Studies (“Culinary Relations: Gastrodiplomacy in Thailand, South Korea and Taiwan”, 2019) that because gastrodiplomacy is related to efforts to build a nation’s image through food, it falls under the realm of countries’ diplomatic efforts to foster a sense of mutual understanding among nations.
From her research in the three countries, she concluded that each country sought to connect its signature foods with its national identity. From this conclusion, it is clear that gastrodiplomacy is not limited to stomach and food matters. As initiated by the pioneer of gastrodiplomacy Paul Rockower, gastrodiplomacy is an effort to build the image and position of a nation for the creation of a certain reputation (or national brand) through food.
From the views of Lipscomb and Rockower, one can derive two concepts related to the image of a nation: First, there is a national brand that is more related to the reputation of a country, and second, a national identity that refers more to the nation’s character, traditions, culture and language. Austria, for example, has a reputation for being the world capital of classical music, the orchestra and one of the United Nations’ headquarters. But in the context of national identity, Austria is known as a nation with European cultures and traditions, artistic talent and democracy.
To project Indonesia’s image in a broader and more strategic perspective, cultural diplomacy is carried out in a new narrative: to portray Indonesia as multicultural, democratic, moderate, tolerant and respectful of diversity. This new narrative of cultural diplomacy should become a reference for gastrodiplomacy. Every gastrodiplomatic activity must be attached to the new narrative of cultural diplomacy so it does not merely promote the delicacy of Indonesian food.
Indonesian gastrodiplomacy should communicate that certain foods have symbolic values that project national identity and national character.
Take for example, tumpeng (yellow rice cone with side dishes) and gado-gado (mixed vegetables with peanut sauce), which are almost always present at every Indonesian gastrodiplomatic event. As part of gastrodiplomacy, the symbolic and philosophical meaning of the two foods must be narrated to the audience.
The tumpeng pointing up symbolises our prayers to the Creator, a symbol of religiosity. The colourful side dishes represent the Indo-nesian people, who are diverse in ethnicities and religions. The same goes for gado-gado. A variety of colourful vegetables when brought together by peanut sauce will taste more delicious than if they were enjoyed separately. Gadogado is also flexible and moderate in character. Whatever types of vegetables, Indonesian or European, if they are presented in one dish doused with peanut sauce, the taste remains delicious. It symbolises flexibility and the moderate Indonesian people who can provide friendship on a plate of international relations.
If such symbolic meaning and philosophy are narrated at every international event, gastrodiplomacy can play a role in projecting Indonesia’s image. The grand narrative about Indonesia, which is multicultural, moderate, tolerant and respectful of diversity, portrays the country as a flexible nation and friendly with all nations.
The good social acceptance in international relations that Indonesia has through gastrodiplomacy will in turn have a positive impact on other fields of cooperation, especially trade and tourism. – The Jakarta Post/Asia News Network
Darmansjah Djumala is a senior diplomat assigned to Austria and the United Nations in Vienna, and doctoral lecturer at the International Relations Department, School of Politics and Social Sciences, Padjadjaran University, West Java. The views expressed are his own.