Invigorating beauty regimens
> Should you be cleaning and exfoliating your skin on a daily basis?
TRACES of make-up, tiny particles from the air and the skin’s natural oils: over the course of a day, all that dirt accumulates on our facial skin. This is one of the reasons why it’s so important to have a gentle and effective cleaning regimen. The other reason?
“The moisturiser you use can only work properly if your skin’s pores are not blocked,” explains dermatologist Stefan Duve.
“A facial cleansing regimen is most effective when it is divided into several steps and the products used are adapted to the person’s skin type.”
The first step is to remove the make-up and coarser dirt residue. Depending on the type of skin, foam, gel or oil can be used.
While a light gel is great for a greasy complexion, oil-containing cleansers are suited for dry skin, because they have a greasing and re-lipidation effect.
“You will usually notice straight away if you’re using the right product or not: if the skin tenses up or even flakes, it means the cleansing product was too aggressive,” explains Duve.
The cleansing product should be applied with circular movements and removed with a lot of water – lukewarm is best. Gently dry the face with a towel.
The next step is to use a face wash. You should look carefully at what you’re buying as “face washes can vary a lot,” explains dermatologist Pia Paes.
“Some are more for after-cleansing and others more for toning. They help to balance the pH levels of the skin after cleaning it,” adds Paes. This is particularly important if you live in a hard-water area.
Micellar water is a product that’s quite new on the market. It contains micelles, which are microscopic oil particles suspended in water that pull dirt and oil out of the skin. “They are particularly gentle on the skin and very thorough,” says Paes.
Face washes that contain alcohol are widely available.
“The disinfecting effect is perfect for skin that is greasy, and prone to impurities,” Paes explains. At the same time, products that contain alcohol can dehydrate the skin, which is why the skin specialist does not recommend using such products on a longterm basis.
“Alcohol-based formulas should not be used on dry, product-sensitive skin.”
You shouldn’t go over the top with your cleansing regimen.
“Once or twice a day is fine, it’s totally enough,” says dermatologist Joerg Fraenken. “Otherwise the protective layer, the skin barrier function and the microorganisms inhabiting the human body will be damaged.”
Experts also advise against using normal soap for cleaning the skin. Soap changes the pH level, which can adversely affect the skin’s acid protective layer.
A special form of cleansing is exfoliation.
“Exfoliating prod- ucts contain fine abrasive particles, which remove dead skin cells,” explains Fraenken.
Most products are for use at home, but there are also chemical peels that are performed in many dermatological practices. It involves a chemical solution, and cleans deeper than regular exfoliation.
Some chemical peels are less intense than others, reaching the top outermost layer of the skin only, explains Fraenken. This can improve the skin structure and texture, treat uneven pigmentation and even less severe cases of acne.
“In most cases, fruit acids are used, mainly glycolic acid.”
You can even go and get one done in your lunch break! – dpa