Creepy crawlie cuisine
> Thailand gourmands explore insect cuisine, as the capital city leaps onto the latest global food trend with a sustainable agenda
“I’ve been working in the climate change, natural resource management fields for a number of years, and a big part of it has been the search for the sustainable forms of protein, food and supply chain,” she told AFP.
With the world’s population expected to hit 9.8 billion in 2050, many experts remain acutely concerned about how the world will feed itself, as well as the environmental damage caused by so much meat being consumed.
Insects, she said, require a fraction of the costs and energy needed to farm, compared to staples like chicken, pork, and beef.
That is nothing new to many of Thailand’s rural classes.
Insect consumption is particularly popular in the rural northern regions, mainly due to its drought-prone climate, which has created a more varied and less fussy local palate.
For people in the central part of the country that is fertile all year long, insects are eaten more as a snack, often deep fried and served with seasoning or spicy sauce.
But persuading the wealthy middle classes of Bangkok, a city of huge disproportionate wealth compared to the rest of the country, is still a challenge.
“No Bangkokian eats insects because it has a social status connotation,” said Massimo Reverberi, an Italian entrepreneur of a small start-up called Bugsolutely.
Based in Bangkok and Shanghai, his firm says the not-so-welcoming look of insects remains a major turn-off for many.
Instead he looks for ways to use insects in everyday food items, like chips and energy bars.
Their current product is a pasta made from cricket flour, which is now sold by a small number of outlets in Japan and New Zealand, but not yet Thailand.
Back in the kitchen of Insects in the Backyard, chef Thitiwat Tantragarn says the most important thing is to get the flavours right.
“Giant water bug meat has a similar texture to crab, so that’s why I use it in the ravioli,” he enthused.
Ant eggs are another favourite of his, which he tends to serve with fish.
“They have a sour flavour, which helps reduce the fishy taste. We try to make sure the menu has balance and harmony.”
“My intention is to change diners’ attitude. Insects are edible and delicious,” he added. “It’s not disgusting.”
His culinary approach appears to be working.
Ania Bialek, a British teacher living in Thailand, said she had tried fried insects sold by street vendors, but wanted to know what a higher end menu would taste like.
“I will happily eat them again,” she said at the end of the meal.
“But I would need someone else to prepare it for me. I will not be keen on cooking it myself.” – AFP