Okinawa, here I come!
O Okinawa is an island paradise with its own uniquely Japanese identity
WHAT surprised me about Okinawa was how the local culture differs from that of mainland Japan. This is due to its illustrious history, which I was about to learn during my recent media familiarisation trip.
Nobody would think to visit a tomb on a holiday, but the Tamaudun Mausoleum was our first stop. It was designed to resemble a royal palace of the time, with three Shisa (stone dragons) to guard it.
A crunch below my feet made me look down, only to discover that the gravel consists of broken corals (don’t worry, they aren’t bones!). Back then, corals were believed to have a purifying power.
The tomb is unique because it doubled as a site to wash the bones of the dead, as part of a purification rite before entombment.
Over here, I can see the Chinese influence in Okinawan culture. On the surrounding fence, there are plaques showing figures of bats and phoenixes.
If tomb visits aren’t your cup of tea, take a walk along the Kinjo-cho stone graved path. Built during the Ryukyu Kingdom (1429–1879), it was a road from Shuri Castle to the southern area of Okinawa, and it overlooks Naha city from above.
Other than discovering interesting cafes and flowers, I realised that the local houses along the path have Shisa dragons flanking the roof or gates as guardians against evil spirits.
Harmonious living
The tranquil Shikinaen
Royal Garden was the second residence for the royal family, and was used to entertain foreign envoys.
Again, hints of
Chinese influence can be seen in the architecture of the bridges and the gazebo (Rokkakudo) in the middle of the pond. It was easy to imagine lavish banquets being held here.
I could also see how their ancestors designed homes to coexist with nature. The eaves, known as amahaji, extend beyond the roof, allowing them to block direct sunlight and rain without covering the beautiful view ahead.
Revering nature
We made a brief stop at a spot overlooking Niraikanai Bridge to admire the views of the Pacific Ocean. In the distance lay Kudaka Island (known as the Island of Gods), where we were to visit a sacred site
named Sefa-utaki.
Sefa-utaki is a holy place where Ryukyuans prayed to nature in a lush forest. As such, the prayer sites (utaki) are usually facing trees, or in front of a natural rock formation. Interestingly, the leaders of the faith are women, and are known as noro priestesses. This reverence for nature can be seen at the site known as Sangui, which has a triangular opening formed by two blocks of coral limestone.
The altar faces Kudaka Island in the distance, where it’s believed the goddess Amamikyu descended and populated the islands by giving birth.
Nearby, water droplets drip down from two stalactites into two urns below. The water in these urns functioned as holy water and were used during sacred ceremonies. When seen from afar, the triangular opening and the stalactites form the image of a pregnant woman.
A message of peace
Our visit to the World War II museums Peace Memorial Park & Museum and the Himeyuri Peace Museum was sombre, but an important visit in these times. The exhibits detailed the horrors of the
Battle of Okinawa in 1945, along with chilling first person accounts from survivors. The war put the whole island under siege, which resulted in very high casualties.
Needless to say, visitors to the two museums will emerge with an understanding that war brings no good, no matter how it’s coloured, and why the locals will always stand for peace.
Beautiful paradise
Despite its history, Okinawa is indeed a paradise. Wherever you go, you’ll be mesmerised by the sea’s various shades of blue, from clear turquoise to indigo. It’s difficult to resist the urge to jump into the water.
Despite not hitting the beach immediately, our first night was quite eventful. Right in the heart of Kokusai Street, we were treated to spectacular traditional Ryukyuan cuisine at the Suitenro restaurant, which takes diners back to the olden days with traditional seating on tatami mats, and entertaining Ryukyuan performances.
We enjoyed servings of tofu soaked in a local liquor called Awamori, as well as pork and sweet potato, while watching performers in beautiful costumes dancing and singing Okinawan folk songs. The highlight of the night was when diners joined in, while being serenaded by a performer playing a Sanshin (a traditional banjo).
At Kokusai Street, be sure to try the ice-cream at Blue Seal. Boasting a variety of flavours, its four bestsellers are Okinawan Salt Cookies, Beni-Imo (Sweet Potato), Sugar Cane, and Okinawa Ta-imo Cheesecake.
A few doors down the road is the famous and colourful Beni-Imo Tart shop, which was also brimming with merchandise such as file folders, bags and even magnets!
If you’re still feeling peckish, head over to Kokusaidori Yatai Mura where delicious streetfood such as yakitori and noodles await. Walking and dining along Kokusai Street was the perfect end to the first night, but more fun was to come. Look out for the next article about my Okinawa trip.
This media familiarisation trip was courtesy of AirAsia and Japan National Tourism Organisation (JNTO). AirAsia flies four times weekly to Okinawa via Taipei.