The Sun (Malaysia)

Living the American dream

Malaysian fashion designer Jasmine Chong competes in the fashionabl­e US reality Amazon Prime Video series, Making the Cut

- Ű BY JASON LIM

NEWS broke that Malaysian fashion designer Jasmine Chong was set to compete in the Amazon Prime Video reality series, Making the Cut, hosted by Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn.

Chong and 11 other fashion designers will be judged before a panel of industry experts including Naomi Campbell, Carine Roitfeld, Joseph Altuzzara, Chiara Ferragni and Nicole Richie.

Just last February, Chong presented her most recent Autumn/Winter 2020 collection Celestia during New York Fashion Week (NYFW). In the collection, she found a sense of ethereal beauty in the gilded halls of the Palace of Versailles in France. And in that beauty, there were flaws in humanity; where she felt insignific­ant and ordinary among the grandeur of dramatic Baroque decor and lavish Rococo frescoes.

The collection mirrors the movements between a lofty world that’s not of her own, and embraces beauty in imperfecti­on with sheer chiffon and silk organza weighed down by flocked velvet and heavy jacquards, and menswear silk shirting and wisps of French lace.

Chong shares: “The pace of fashion moves so swiftly, with so much output into the world. My approach to design and fashion has always been a slower, more artful approach. Ideas and silhouette­s need to marinate before you commit to them, and like most things, good things take time.”

What fuels you as a fashion designer?

“I draw so much from personal experience­s and emotions, and designing is one of the few ways I can find catharsis. Designing pieces that are meaningful to me and then having my customers draw meaning and find beauty in the pieces – that’s one of the most fulfilling aspects of being a designer.”

What are the hallmarks of your namesake label Jasmine Chong?

“Growing up in Kuala Lumpur and spending a lot of time in Jakarta, my mother and I would go shopping, we’d walk up to a rack and feel like we couldn’t try anything on as we both wear between a US size 8 to 14.

“I never sought out to create an ‘inclusive’ line, but I think that my personal experience­s have inevitably influenced my designs. I want to have women of a range of sizes feel like they have access to aspiration­al and luxurious womenswear.

“There’s this archaic idea – that an aspiration­al aesthetic has to be a certain size, a certain height, a certain look. I hope to widen the perception of what aspiration­al is, because the truth is, there isn’t just one single beauty ideal.

“There’s everywhere, many ways.” beauty in so

Can you describe the emotion of creating garments?

“It always stems from a strong feeling and emotion. Fashion has become a journal to me, so I’ll create a mood board by writing, sketching and taking film photograph­s. Film, because there’s a moodiness that can’t be replicated in digital form.

“After that, I spend hours draping; literally hours and days. Draping feels the most natural to me, so I work that way to come up with new silhouette­s. I love nothing more than being in my atelier in the Garment District, draping

and pinning away.”

How do you lay the groundwork for each collection?

“The design process takes time, from initial inspiratio­n, draping, to the final show sample. A lot of people think the glamour of the shows is the best part of being a designer, but for me, I love the quiet and the uncertaint­y and experiment­ation that comes with the design process.”

Having showcased in NYFW for the fourth season, what goes into the genesis of a fashion show?

“A good team is everything, and it has taken me four shows to finally feel like I’ve found it.

“Emily Rudman is my key makeup artist and she helps me dream up the makeup look for the models. Davide Marinelli is my hairstylis­t from years ago when I was just a student, so when I finally launched a label, he was the perfect person to lead the hair team. It all comes together so beautifull­y when you have the right team, because they get you on such an intuitive and creative level that you can trust them with your vision. It’s so special.”

How did you come to compete in Amazon Prime Video’s fashion competitio­n, Making The Cut?

“I was in Los Angeles for a trunk show and the casting director e-mailed me. I actually thought it was spam at first! Within days, I was at Amazon for meetings.

“The entire experience and being on a show with such a powerhouse panel of judges was so surreal – it was unlike anything I’ve ever experience­d before. It really taught me that sometimes, taking a risk and leaping into the unknown can be really rewarding. I loved being a part of such a diverse group of designers as well. I can’t wait for everyone to see the show!”

I’ve heard that Midtown, Manhattan is slowly dying, due to designers outsourcin­g overseas for cheaper fabrics and workmanshi­p. What does it mean to be a true fashion label that is designed and made in New York’s Garment District? “You’re not wrong. The Garment District has been shrinking, and given the current pandemic situation, it’s something that’s frequently on my mind. However, I believe that the Garment District family is incredibly resilient, and will weather through this in some way. There is still a roster of designers who strongly identify with being a part of the Garment District.”

In a previous interview, you’ve mentioned: “The most beautiful things in life are the ones that don’t last.” How does that inform the issue of sustainabi­lity in fashion?

“For my debut Autumn/Winter 2016 collection Botanica Ephemera, the inspiratio­n was botanical illustrati­ons; documentin­g and holding onto something ephemeral, like a plant. There’s something beautiful about the ephemeral nature of plants. You have to appreciate a plant’s beauty because it doesn’t last.

“In terms of clothing and sustainabi­lity, I believe that thoughtful­ly designed, well-crafted clothing that is treasured, loved and worn is better for the environmen­t. A few of our signature pieces are also size-agnostic, with fluid, drapey silhouette­s, so they are still wearable even as our bodies change. It makes the pieces less disposable and less likely to end up in a landfill.”

 ?? COURTESY OF JASMINE CHONG ?? Last February, Jasmine Chong presented her Autumn/Winter 2020 collection at New York Fashion Week. –
COURTESY OF JASMINE CHONG Last February, Jasmine Chong presented her Autumn/Winter 2020 collection at New York Fashion Week. –
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 ??  ?? Chong has worked under Anna Sui, Marchesa, Thakoon and Tory Burch before launching her eponymous fashion label in early 2016 at NYFW. – COURTESY OF JASMINE CHONG
Chong has worked under Anna Sui, Marchesa, Thakoon and Tory Burch before launching her eponymous fashion label in early 2016 at NYFW. – COURTESY OF JASMINE CHONG
 ??  ?? Jasmine Chong Autumn/Winter 2020 collection. – COURTESY OF SOFIA COLVIN
Jasmine Chong Autumn/Winter 2020 collection. – COURTESY OF SOFIA COLVIN

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