A train ride along the Elbe River
Visit scenic landscapes in the Czech Republic on a rail tour
WHILE the Elbe River becomes impressively wide in Germany, it starts as a series of streams in the north-western Czech Republic.
To see for yourself, simply follow the river to its starting point – which coincidentally can be done quite unhurriedly on a train.
This delightfully historic train begins in the eastern German city of Dresden, but it won’t be long until you’re in the picturesque region known as Bohemian Switzerland, in the north-western Czech Republic.
Time will especially fly if you’ve made it to the restaurant car, all plush red seats and white tablecloths. A waiter approaches you and asks what you’d like to eat. A cold pilsner perhaps to wash down a schnitzel, potatoes and cucumber salad?
Half an hour later, you’re at the Czech border, in Bad Schandau, a gem in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. It’s the last town before you cross the border. Tourist boats used to traverse the region too, but these days, there’s not enough water in the river, so the railway is your best bet.
Before you know it, it’s time to change trains and head for Melnik, a wine town above Usti nad Labem. It’s a picturesque spot right by the confluence of the Elbe and Vltava rivers – and an excellent place for those who are thirsty, with 90 winegrowers for every 20,000 inhabitants.
This summer’s day is a sweltering 38.5 degrees, but tour guide Sarka Kalfarova is not distracted as she tells the stories and history of her homeland in central Bohemia. She speaks of Saint Ludmilla, who married the first prince of the Kingdom of Bohemia and became a
Christian, bringing Christianity – and wine.
Speaking of which, plenty of wine can be found stored in Chateau
Melnik. If you’re visiting the renaissance chateau, now privately owned, with its impressive rooms, don’t miss out on the cellars.
The owner, Jiri Jan Lobkowicz, describes his holdings as spanning “three castles in Bohemia, two in France.” He notes that 80,000 tourists visit each year, and they put on 25,000 wine tastings too.
“Wine sales have grown, quality has improved,” says Lobkowicz. The local wines are impressively fullbodied.
In the charming heart of Melnik, meanwhile, you can see houses that were once Gothic and have since been redesigned. They now span a range of styles from renaissance, baroque to some art nouveau.
Back on the rails a day later, the next stop is Podebrady.
Step off the train, and you’re practically in the gardens of the spa already. It’s a soothing place with fountains, flowers and smartly trimmed box trees lining the path to the river.
Podebrady castle is on the banks of the river, and here, a diviner found a source of water in 1905. A well 100 metres deep revealed a mineral spring, and ever since, the spa established here has been treating people with heart and circulation troubles. If you’re in the park, meanwhile, you can take mineral water from several springs.
Head next for Pardubice and exchange the train for a bike. It won’t be difficult, as every city in the country has a bike rental service courtesy of the Czech Railways.
It’s an easy ride, with flat bike paths and views of meadows and forests, and the little canals and endless fields of sunflowers are all delightful.
If you’re a fan of the funky, though, then check out the gingerbread house – Pernikova chaloupka – in the forest near Kuneticka Hora Castle in Raby. You’ll find plenty of gingerbread in the museum, a hunting lodge from 1882.
Head now for the source of the Elbe: Take the train from Pardubice through Stara Paka and Kuncice to Vrchlabi. Change twice then grab a taxi to Spindleruv Mlyn, where you’re back at the river side.
Now lace up your hiking boots and take a stroll through the clear air of the Krkonose National Park. It’s lined with trails, meadows and pretty mountain ridges. You should pass a typical Martinova bouda, a mountain chalet, as there are plenty of these little places to stay.
Stick to the path and you’ll find a spring emerging into the Elbe meadow. You might miss it if it weren’t for a ring of stones.
The actual source is in a boggy moorland a little farther up, but that isn’t accessible. But if you’ve chased the Elbe River this far, then the ring of stones isn’t bad
at all. – dpa