Ri­hanna’s in, Wang is out: A pre­view of NY Fash­ion Week

Malta Independent - - FEATURE -

The French lux­ury house Longchamp will be there for the first time. So will Stu­dio One Eighty Nine, the Ghana-based ar­ti­san ini­tia­tive co-founded by ac­tress Rosario Daw­son. Look for Ri­hanna, but don’t look for Vic­to­ria Beck­ham or Alexan­der Wang.

There’s a never-end­ing churn to New York Fash­ion Week and its packed sched­ule of more than 200 Septem­ber shows and other events is no dif­fer­ent.

Here’s a run­down of who will be there, who won’t and other high­lights:


The su­per­star’s size-in­clu­sive Sav­age x Fenty line of lin­gerie, undies and in­ti­mate ac­ces­sories will close eight days of fash­ion with an “im­mer­sive ex­pe­ri­ence” the night of Sept. 12 in Brook­lyn, be­cause the fash­ion horde loves a good schlep to Brook­lyn. No mat­ter. It’s Ri­hanna af­ter all. She de­buted the line in May with sizes rang­ing up to size 44DD in bras and 3XL in ap­parel. The lat­est will be avail­able for im­me­di­ate pur­chase on Sav­ageX.com. Pop-ups in New York, Min­nesota’s Mall of Amer­ica and else­where are planned.


The fam­ily-owned Longchamp is hav­ing its cake and eat­ing it, too, as the com­pany marks 70 years in busi­ness with its first full-scale run­way show in New York. It was a big Amer­i­can­themed year for the house with the open­ing of a Fifth Av­enue flag­ship store, a col­lab­o­ra­tion with Shayne Oliver and Kendall Jen­ner as its new face.

Longchamp will also cel­e­brate in Paris with a Septem­ber event at the Opera Garnier, ac­cord­ing to a com­pany state­ment, as it has ex­panded in re­cent years from leather goods into ready-to-wear ap­parel.

“Longchamp has al­ways acted on in­tu­ition — some­thing we can al­low our­selves to do be­cause we are in­de­pen­dent — and we chose New York as we are in­spired by the en­ergy and free­dom of the city,” the com­pany said.

Was Self Por­trait sim­i­larly in­spired as it landed on the New York sched­ule, or was it the Lon­don-based com­pany’s higher pro­file due to one par­tic­u­larly fa­mous fan, Meghan the Duchess of Sus­sex?

The duchess wore a black-and­white dress from Self Por­trait for her first go-around at Queen El­iz­a­beth’s an­nual Christ­mas lunch, be­fore the wed­ding. The midi dress with a black lace top and pink and white de­tails sold out quickly.

Daw­son’s Stu­dio One Eighty Nine will also be on hand. It al­ready has a store in New York, along with one in Ac­cra, and a slew of awards. They in­clude the pres­ti­gious Coun­cil of Fash­ion De­sign­ers of Amer­ica Lexus Sus­tain­able Fash­ion Ini­tia­tive Award. The com­pany has a man­u­fac­tur­ing fa­cil­ity in Ac­cra and sup­ports ar­ti­san com­mu­ni­ties in Africa spe­cial­iz­ing in indigo, hand-batik and kente weav­ing. It sup­ports ini­tia­tives aimed at em­pow­er­ing women, job pro­grams and ed­u­ca­tional op­por­tu­ni­ties in the in­dus­try.


Vic­to­ria Beck­ham is cel­e­brat­ing 10 years in busi­ness and has de­camped to Lon­don, where she’ll show at the fash­ion week im­me­di­ately fol­low­ing New York. The Brit built her em­pire in New York and her com­pany re­mains based here.

Vera Wang has been off the fash­ion week ham­ster wheel for a while, as has Kanye West. And Philipp Plein? He pol­ished up a huge space­ship for a win­try splash of a Fe­bru­ary show in New York af­ter leav­ing Mi­lan but has not yet spo­ken about fu­ture ex­trav­a­gan­zas here.

As for Wang, he gen­er­ated a lot of buzz ear­lier this year by an­nounc­ing he would dump fash­ion week sched­ules al­to­gether, choos­ing to show in June and De­cem­ber rather than par­tic­i­pate in New York’s weeks in Fe­bru­ary and Septem­ber. The idea is to shorten the time con­sumers need to wait be­tween re­veal and store de­liv­ery, from six months to four. Other brands have fol­lowed suit.


Spade, the co-founder and for­mer co-owner of the com­pany with hus­band Andy Spade, killed her­self in June. She and Spade cre­ated their first hand­bag line in 1993 and sold off bits of the com­pany start­ing in 1999, cash­ing out com­pletely in 2006. But the brand lives on and this will be its first run­way show and the first time at fash­ion week since the loss of its name­sake.

The show will be staged at the or­nate main branch of the New York Pub­lic Li­brary and will be the in­tro­duc­tion of new de­signer Nicola Glass. A trib­ute was ex­pected.


Los An­ge­les sis­ters Kate and Laura Mul­leavy headed off to Paris cou­ture week last year, but they an­nounced on In­sta­gram in July they’d be re­turn­ing to the New York ready-to-wear sched­ule in Septem­ber to de­but their lat­est.

An­other re­turnee: New York­based Proenza Schouler. The de­sign duo Jack McCol­lough and Lazaro Her­nan­dez showed in Paris for two sea­sons but took to In­sta­gram in June to say they’d be back at New York Fash­ion Week, where it all be­gan, come Septem­ber.

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