Gaultier Paris by Sacai
From the Maison’s HQ, the collaboration between Jean Paul Gaultier and Sacai reveals its Fall-Winter 2021 Haute Couture collection. Sacai is a Japanese luxury fashion brand founded by Chitose Abe (née Chitose Sakai) in 1999. Vogue magazine has cited Sacai as influential in breaking down the dichotomy between casual and formal clothing.
After his last fashion show, Jean Paul turned over the keys of the couture Atelier to Chitose Abe. The designer and founder behind the Sacai house is kicking off a new episode for Jean Paul Gaultier: each season, a new creator will take over the Gaultier codes and reinterpret them their own way in a couture collection.
Re-mixing the Maison’s iconic pieces, Chitose Abe runs through the Gaultier universe Sacai-style, with 31 looks, all finessed to perfection.
Avant-garde silhouettes – from Madonna’s corset with tennis stripes to MA1 bombers in khaki nylon with tangerine lining to the very French trench coat – everything is transformed into a dress, a corset with conical breasts, a skirt, or a cape. Beloved knit is patchworked and super-oversized waists are pleated in a couture accordion. Vintage jeans are sewn together into an underskirt, placed under a replica of a jacket from the ’94 fashion show.
To complement these creations, Chitose Abe has invited longtime friend and collaborator Pierre Hardy to work together with on the show’s shoes. The overstitched boots and thighhigh boots are inspired by the maison’s legendary corsets and mirror the themes of the collection: leather, mesh, denim, jacquard, all on XL wedge heels.
Appearing throughout, the Tattoo prints are calligraphed by Los Angeles based artist Dr Woo, also a long-time friend and collaborator of Sacai.
The shadow of Björk is suggested by two looks with red jacquard thigh-high boots.
The ultimate tribute to the designer, a multi-fabric striped sweater gently dissipates, transitioning from opaque satin to the
sheerest tulle. The Enfant Terrible’s beloved tartan is re-imagined as a ruffled petticoat. Last but not least, Jean Paul Gaultier’s own overalls (worn for his last couture show) are transformed into an evening gown and a voluminous pant ensemble, bringing the story full circle.
Sacai worked with Nike to produce two pairs of exclusive sneakers for the collection, celebrating the spirit of Jean Paul Gaultier. The sneakers, which come in black and multicoloured versions, feature split soles and side stitching, nodding to the Gaultier atelier’s quintessential work.
The Classique perfume bottle has been given a makeover with an all-over print of Dr Woo’s Tattoos. A couture and ultra-limited edition for the Maison’s original fragrance.