The Malta Independent on Sunday
They’re spreading more than a little happiness at Luna restaurant
Lunch at Palazzo Parisio in Naxxar has been a favourite since it started being served. I cannot think of another restaurant where you can sit in a sea of flowers, foliage and trees with elegantly napped tables, in the open air, when the weather is fine, and enjoy a leisurely meal or a snack if you so wish or just coffee or tea if it is all you need.
I had enjoyed a meal or two at Luna when it first opened its doors only opened for dinner. Covid ruined much for us all. However. plans for the restaurant’s refurbishment have been a long time in the making. Baroness Justine and her late mother Christiane Ramsay Scicluna, had many meetings with Italian architect Antonio Girardi, before finalising the designs of what would become the new Palazzo restaurant.
And here it is and so splendid too and in keeping with the immense style and opulence of the rest of this ‘miniature Versailles’. The Scicluna family has never spared either time or money always engaging the best, whether it is architects, craftsmen, artisans, chefs or gardeners.
The extravagant murals, painted ceilings and celestial allegories, fine frescoes, trompe l’oeil… did not simply happen. This house goes back a long way as it was originally built in 1733 by the Portughese Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena. But it is the Baroness’s ancestor who purchased it after the Parisio family who had no issue, lived in it, and turned it into the splendid Palazzo we can now enjoy.
Architect Antonio Girardi’s plans were put into action and the works in the dining room began in August of last year, with local architects and project manager, Paul Cuschieri. Luna restaurant has already had a soft launch and a series of official launches have already been held to rave reviews.
The exacting and enchanting standards established by Marquis Giuseppe Scicluna were continued by those who came after him following the German poet Goethe’s “Work on what you have inherited from your fathers, that you may possess it.” And so, the maintenance of a great tradition continues whether in the building, the gardens or the restaurant.
The Napoli born architect Antonio Girardi engaged by the late baroness, specialises in the design of luxury hotels and private residences, having created
some unique designs in some of Italy’s most coveted real estate, including Capri. His style is both eclectic and elegant, characterised by the unique elements of the property that give his designs their exclusive nature. His buildings have featured in Architectural Digest, Traveller, Esquire, Elle Decoration
Drawing on the botanical inspiration of the Palace, the new restaurant designs combine a variety of luxurious materials including mirrors, murals, fabrics, glass, and chandeliers to capture the feeling of garden calm in this indoor oasis.
The finishing touches have local influence with lampshades painted by portrait artist Philippa Bianchi and soft furnishings by Alison Satariano. The art on the walls is a mixture of paintings by the Baroness’ great Uncle Joe. Artistic photographs adorn the walls by local legends, Kurt Arrigo, Kris Micallef, and Guido Stilton.
The new designs pay tribute to the family who have been the custodians of Palazzo Parisio for generations. A family gallery with photos from the past make for a great trip down memory lane, allowing patrons a glimpse into the life of the aristocracy from the past.
To go with the recreated restaurant, Palazzo Parisio have launched a new spring
menu. David Giacomelli, worked as sous chef for Palazzo Parisio for three years and was promoted to head chef earlier last summer. His new menus are seasonal, with a focus on local ingredients. He worked closely with the head gardener Rueben Rapa to design a kitchen garden that complements the menu, reducing travel time from farm to fork.
Palazzo Parisio has its own orangerie and olive groves. The latter provide an abundance of olives for their own olive oil, and the Seville oranges are turned into marmalade on an annual basis.
After immersing ourselves into the ambience of the now extended restaurant my friend and I sat down to enjoy the meal, starting with the homemade bread dipped into olive oil with balsamic pearls, while we decided what we were going to eat.
To my delight the choice on the menu is very good but not enormous, unlike those pizza and pasta eateries where it is fodder rather than food. A special place must have a special menu which has been planned with love and attention. Impossible to have an enormous choice on such a menu. That is exactly what Chef Giocomelli is providing to patrons.
Starters include Crunchy octopus, Venison Carpaccio, Asparagus Flan and Crudo di Mare. There is also a green zucchini and lemongrass soup. All have trimmings of one type or another.
For first course my friend chose Homemade Tagliolini with Osietra Caviar. Not Beluga of course, which would unbalance the average bank account if it is available here at all. I tried some until my Orange and Grand Marnier Risotto arrived. I may have been brought up with opera music in the background but certainly I never tasted caviar until I lived in Mauritius. There, through our respective jobs, we made friends with some Russian diplomats who called us when their ration of caviar arrived and we sat there talked, drank some vodka and ate caviar with blinis. I never asked what caviar it was but we loved those evenings with cultured people who were willing to share their caviar with us.
I refuse to make a list of the menu. You must go and find out for yourselves. You will love it. I saw nothing but smiles in the tables around us.
For mains my friend ordered Spicy Coconut Swordfish which was served with caponata and accompaniments. I asked to be served a little of the spicy coconut sauce, just to try it. I ate it with some bread and I liked it very much. I enjoyed my fish, simply cooked and served with greens and potatoes. I was preparing myself for dessert: Mille-feuille Chantilly alla Strega with local strawberries. It was a difficult choice to make what with Fruit Tartlet, Ice-cream selections, a
White Chocolate and Lemon Caprese and a Torroncino Parfait with hot chocolate sauce and merigues on offer. I shall obviously have to make at least one return visit.
and others.
Apart from the very good food I must mention Raisa who is Maltese and served us so well throughout the evening. She is good-looking, smart and obliging without being intrusive. When my friend who has eaten a lot more caviar than I ever shall, asked about the caviar, Raisa went to the kitchen and brought us a tin.
The strength of Luna is also its ambience. There is a feeling of elegance and intimacy. No windows to the outside world. You are enjoying an evening in a beautiful cocoon. The surroundings are glamourous without being overwhelming. And the music is low although I would have Chopin on the piano throughout. I loved it and this without wine which for various reasons we decided not to have.
Well, Baroness Justine, like her mother, certainly knows how to spread a little happiness.