Start at the Rembrandtplein / T: 4, 9, 14 Rembrandtplein / facing Utrechtestraat. First things first, stop in the Marqt supermarket at #17 Utrechtsestraat and head upstairs to Nyc-style brasserie George Deli / 020 330 0171 / (see Rest./relaxed for branches) / for a lekker brek, or for something a little smoother visit #22 Lite/dark / 020 753 9919 / litedark.nl / and down a decadent signature choc shot. Ready? Dive straight into #35 Laundry Industry / 020 737 2335 / laundryindustry. com / a local label with too kool monochrome basics (w); hippies and travellers alike should check out Kiboots at #47 / 020 772 2942 / kiboots.com / to nab their very own pair of unique handmade kilim boots. Loekie at #57 / 020 624 3740 / loekie.net / is a cute charcuterie and fromagerie; on the opposite corner Studio Bazar / Keizersgracht 709 / 020 622 2858 / studiobazar.com / has mod, trendy kitchen gizmos and gifts. Continue across the canal and find musical valhalla #52-60 Concerto (see Adv. Shopping), a tiny 1950s record shop turned 1000 sq m behemoth of aural pleasure. Next door #62 Mobilia Woonstudio / 020 622 9075 / mobiliawoon studio.com / is an airy studio space and avant-garde design collective, while affordable w/wear awaits at #68 We Are Labels / 020 427 8840 / men’s shop is at #36 / wearelabels. com. At #74 Jan / 020 626 4301, discover a tiny shop stuffed with gorge gifts, then the duo of Look Out stores at #91 (w) and #93 (m) / 020 625 5032 / lookoutmode.nl / has a sophisty mix of stylish togs. If you’re pecky, #90 Tromp / 020 624 1399 / kaashuistromp.nl / has the best cheeses in town, while Fred de Leeuw at #92 / 020 623 0235 / slagerijdeleeuw.nl / is Dam’s resident truffle expert, and further along Patisserie Kuyt at #109 / 020 623 4833 / patisseriekuyt.nl / is heaven for sweet tooths with their signature appletaart. If not, carry on and take a right onto Prinsengracht, where you’ll spot the pretty Amstelveldje square, and where a glass of wine and a spot of people-ogling awaits on the sunny terrace at NEL (see Lunch). Suitably refreshed, retrace back to Utrechtsestraat for some more retail, but perhaps first a fresh herring gobble on the bridge at the Het Vishuisje Prinsengracht stand? Duck into the city’s oldest and most famous cobblers Zwartjes at #123 / 020 644 6122 / zwartjes.nl, who have been handcrafting shoes (m/w) since 1883 – try a style from their heritage collection. Next Ariane Inden at #124 / 294 288 261 / arianeinden.com / has beauty prods for a staggering 48 skin types/conditions, while across at #118 Maison NL / 020 428 5183 / mainsonnl.com / is where curated lifestyle bits like Guild of Holland leather ware and Alexa Lixfield plaids are prettily displayed. If you could use another bite, backtrack a few metres for the sceney Ku Kitchen & Bar at #114 / 020 422 9424 / ku114.nl. Otherwise continue on for fash trove Centre Neuf at #139 / 020 528 5040 / centreneuf.com / with styley togs by Vanessa Bruno, Iro, Acne et al, and menswear mecca Didato at #134 / 020 308 0596 / didato1.nl / spotlighting a roster of names like Dolce & Gabbana and Philipp Plein. Phew! Time to rest those tired trotters and my, what options you have! the achingly hip Bar Moustache is at #141 (see Rest./relaxed) with bistro bites all day and dishy Italian at dinner, or De Koffiesalon at #130 / 020 330 4314 / dekoffiesalon.nl / will power you through another itin, you retail animal.