THE SAVAGE COST:
K2 CLAIMS NZ CLIMBERS
On July the 18, 2013 we got a press release from Skins and Suunto about Marty Schmidt and his son’s before their attempt on K2. It is a peculiar and unnerving feeling to re-read the news release in light of the current tragedy. The press release stated: conquered Broad Peak, on the border of Pakistan and China, their last test before tackling the neighbouring K2, the world’s second highest mountain and one of the world’s toughest to climb.
been forced to sit out a stretch of bad weather before making their summit bid, but summit it was with only 20km/hr winds and clear panoramic views.
The pair and the rest of their team and support crew will now move to base camp at K2 to prepare for their assault on what is a legendarily tough mountain to conquer.
Despite the dangers Marty Schmidt is adamant K2 is the mountain he loves most.
“I’ve climbed a lot of the world’s biggest mountains but K2 is the one I respect the most. I’ve been on it twice without summiting. I’m just called to it all the time.
“I want to show the world what it’s like. It’s like going to the moon without a NASA rocket.”
Schmidt, 53, has climbed some of the world’s tallest peaks without oxygen, Seven Summits (the seven tallest mountains on each continent) many times, and has summited Everest twice.
environment at all times. “Know your rest step, your breath work, clear goggles before
On the 29th of July the news broke: Martin Walter Schmidt, 53, and his 25-year old son Denali Walter Schmidt were missing. They had not been seen since an avalanche hit Camp 3 on the 8,611-metre mountain.
Sentiments have poured in from around the world at the tragic loss of these two experienced climbers.
K2 Base Camp.
"Our fears on the fate of New Zealand mountain guide Marty Schmidt and his son Denali - who climbed up from Camp 2 to Camp 3 last Friday as we all returned to Base Camp due to the dangerous snow conditions -
"As Marty's last radio communication took place on Friday night from the camp, the avalanche almost certainly occurred that night as they slept in their tent."
crucial climbing equipment lying in the snow. “The deaths of a father and son is a tragedy in itself but compounded even further by the fact that Marty and Denali were great people that we all got to know very well in the close knit community of K2 Base Camp. They were very well known, highly experienced and extremely strong mountaineers, the last people many would expect to be killed on a mountain.
Sadly, at times the mountains do not differentiate between ability and experience, least of all K2. The poignancy of the tragedy is not lost in that, had the rest of us not turned back that day, including Marty and Denali’s Australian team mate Chris Warner, we also all would have been sleeping at Camp 3 when the avalanche struck.
In mountaineering, there is often a very thin line between life and death and here was yet one more occasion. Six teams came down and are alive and well, one team went up and are tragically dead. On behalf of all of us remaining at Base Camp, our sincerest condolences to their family and may Marty and Denali rest in peace.” altitudepakistan.blogspot.com. au
Tim Rippel from Peak Freak Expeditions long time friend and climbing companion.
had so many good qualities; great humour, honest, enthusiastic, skilled mountaineer, strong marathon climber that could pack anyone off a mountain and above all loved he loved people. When he spoke of his son Denali his eyes would light up with a spark and family was always number one in our night talks together.
singing and whistling tunes to keep things moving when things got tough. I loved him like a brother and I miss him.” Wikipedia of ascent and the second-highest fatality rate. For every four people who have reached the summit, one has died trying.”
no one ever sets out intentionally to put themselves at risk. Marty and Denali Schmidt were obviously well aware of the risks and calculated them with experience, knowledge and care. But the balancing act of happen to all men’ – whether crossing the road, riding a bike or climbing a mountain, sometimes being in the wrong place at the wrong time outweighs all the experience and knowledge in the world. The Adventure Magazine team sends its heartfelt commiserations to their friends and family at this tragic loss.