Make-up no-nos:

how to avoid the mis­takes that age you

Australian Women’s Weekly NZ - - CONTENTS -

Most women use make-up every day and mod­ern cos­metic in­no­va­tions can go a long way to help­ing us put our best face for­ward. But what if all those dol­lars spent and min­utes in front of the mir­ror were mak­ing us look older in­stead? As we age, the prod­ucts and tech­niques we rely on can be­gin to fall out of step with what ac­tu­ally makes us look and feel fresh, ra­di­ant and youth­ful. We asked two lead­ing make-up artists about some com­mon mis­steps that could be adding years to our faces.

1 The wrong foun­da­tion

While the need for a foun­da­tion that per­fectly matches your skin colour is a given, get­ting the cov­er­age bal­ance cor­rect – so you even out pig­men­ta­tion, age spots and red­ness, with­out em­pha­sis­ing creases – is tricky. Ac­cord­ing to Olivia Wild, Na­tional Train­ing Man­ager for Bobbi Brown, choos­ing the wrong foun­da­tion, and ap­ply­ing too much of it, is the big­gest er­ror made by women who want to down­play their vin­tage. “A foun­da­tion that’s too thick will set­tle into fine lines and take away the nat­u­ral lu­mi­nos­ity from your skin. Only use foun­da­tion where you need it to even out the com­plex­ion. You don’t have to cover every part of your skin,” says Olivia. En­sur­ing skin is mois­turised and smooth can help too. “If you have dry skin, foun­da­tion can look patchy and ac­cen­tu­ate dis­col­oration, so ex­fo­li­ate two to three times a week.” Full-cov­er­age, very matte for­mu­las can some­times cre­ate a dull, mask-like ap­pear­ance. Lisa Mat­son, make-up di­rec­tor for L’Oréal Paris New Zealand, ad­vises a lighter tex­ture foun­da­tion can be more flat­ter­ing. “Opt for sheer, liq­uid for­mu­las with a soft, lu­mi­nous fin­ish to cre­ate more youth­ful look­ing skin,” she says. Fin­ish ap­pli­ca­tion by us­ing a cot­ton bud to pick up any ex­cess base that’s set­tling into ar­eas where the skin moves and creases, like the fore­head, around the eyes and be­tween your mouth and nose. Try: 1. Bobbi Brown In­ten­sive Skin Serum Foun­da­tion SPF40, $105. 2. El­iz­a­beth Ar­den Pre­vage Anti-age­ing Foun­da­tion SPF30, $106. 3. L’Oréal Paris NutriLift Gold Anti-age­ing Serum Foun­da­tion SPF20, $44.

2 Try­ing to block out dark cir­cles

A lot of women worry about dark cir­cles and shad­ows look­ing worse as skin gets thin­ner un­der the eyes. In­stead of choos­ing a thick opaque con­cealer, Lisa Mat­son’s ap­proach is the same as with foun­da­tion: a liq­uid con­cealer with light­d­if­fus­ing qual­i­ties ap­plied spar­ingly. Try to avoid ex­tend­ing con­cealer out past the outer edge of the eye socket as that’s where skin moves and creases and cak­ing can be­come more prom­i­nent. Try: 4. NARS Ra­di­ant Creamy Con­cealer, $47.

3 Choos­ing lip­stick that’s too dark

The nat­u­ral def­i­ni­tion and plump­ness in your lips lessens with age, so the nat­u­ral in­cli­na­tion is to care­fully line and fill lips, of­ten with a bold or deep colour. Ac­cord­ing to Lisa, this can make them look pinched or smaller than they are. “If thin­ning lips are an is­sue, avoid draw­ing at­ten­tion to their size. Mid-toned colours like mauve or rose-pink will be more flat­ter­ing.” Don’t think you need to stick to a cream or matte tex­ture ei­ther. “Many women may feel they are too old to wear lip gloss,” says Olivia Wild, “but a glossy fin­ish will ac­tu­ally add a youth­ful plump­ness.” Try: 5. Revlon Ul­tra HD Gel Lip­color in HD Sand, $26.50.

4 Only lin­ing the bot­tom of your eyes with liner

Although it may be quicker and eas­ier to ap­ply eye­liner on the bot­tom wa­ter line, don’t let it be­come your de­fault. Do­ing only that will drag your fea­tures down. “It makes your eyes ap­pear smaller and your over­all ap­pear­ance seem older,” says Olivia. “Ap­ply­ing eye­liner on the top as well will open your eyes up and brighten your face. But be sure not to make the liner too thick. When ap­ply­ing eye­liner, try to get the prod­uct as close to your lash line as pos­si­ble, so it ap­pears to be an ex­ten­sion of your eye­lashes.” Brown, navy or char­coal are al­ter­na­tives to harsh black. Try: 6. Nude by Na­ture Con­tour Eye Pen­cil in Brown, $23. >>

“Choos­ing the wrong foun­da­tion, and ap­ply­ing too much of it, is the big­gest er­ror made by women.”

5 Wear­ing too much black around the eyes

By all means keep do­ing a smoky eye; it’s a classic, rel­e­vant look for women of all ages. But ap­ply­ing too much black, or very dark pig­ment, isn’t the ideal ap­proach. In­stead, two or three softer co-or­di­nat­ing shades will still give the def­i­ni­tion and shape you re­quire, with­out look­ing too harsh. Work­ing from a pre-made palette is help­ful. “Switch black for shades of taupe, brown, bronzes, navy or dark grey,” rec­om­mends Lisa. “Oth­er­wise keep black for ac­cents on the outer eye area only.” Us­ing a light touch, and blend­ing well with a fluffy eye­shadow brush will also help achieve a flat­ter­ing “air-brushed” fin­ish. Try: 1. M.A.C 224 Ta­pered Blend­ing Brush, $73. 2. L’Oréal Paris Color Riche La Palette in Rose, $36.

6 Mis­treat­ing your brows

Overzeal­ous pluck­ing, heavy­handed pen­cil ap­pli­ca­tion or just not do­ing any­thing, can all be a detri­ment to look­ing pol­ished and nat­u­ral. “Ev­ery­thing needs to soften as you age,” says Lisa. ”If your hair colour is light­en­ing, then make sure your eye­brows are too. Use a fine brow pen­cil or pow­der two shades lighter than your nat­u­ral brow colour or opt for a blonde shade if brows are fair. Keep the ap­pli­ca­tion light and the outer shape softly blended – no hard lines!” Try: 3. Bil­lion Dol­lar Brows Brows on Point Wa­ter­proof Mi­cro Brow Pen­cil, $34. 4. L’Oréal Paris Brow Artist Ge­nius Kit in Light to Medium, $25.

7 Sport­ing bad blush

When time di­min­ishes youth­ful colour from our com­plex­ions, blush is the per­fect way to make skin look alive and bright. How­ever, just daub­ing a cir­cu­lar dot on the mid­dle of your cheek can look over­done, and try­ing too hard to con­tour with colour is a mine­field! “Some women choose a brown colour be­cause they think they are adding def­i­ni­tion, but it ends up look­ing muddy, dull, and like the make-up is just sit­ting on your skin,” says Olivia. “But a prod­uct that’s too soft can wash you out as well. To find the right shade, pinch your cheeks and try to match the nat­u­ral colour that you get when you ac­tu­ally blush. Some peo­ple ap­ply blush on the bot­tom of the cheek­bone, but you want to place it higher to de­fine and lift your fea­tures,” Ap­ply to the ap­ples and blend it up­wards and out­wards. Try: 5. M.A.C Blush in Fleur Power, $48.

8 Choos­ing “slip­pery” lip­stick

It’s a boon that lip­sticks are no longer lim­ited to heavy, dry for­mu­la­tions that make your lips pucker, but the op­po­site – very hy­drat­ing, shiny and “slip­pery” lip colours – will only end up in the fine lines around your mouth. In­stead, try a gel or satin for­mula that will still sup­ply mois­ture with great colour pay-off. If you want an in­surance pol­icy, try a clear lip liner de­signed to con­tain the colour where you want it. Try: 6. Smashbox Al­ways Sharp Clear Lip Liner, $42.

9 Be­ing heavy-handed with pow­der

You might have been warned off over­do­ing the pow­der be­fore, but it doesn’t mean that us­ing one to set foun­da­tion or as a 3pm touch-up is out of the ques­tion. New de­vel­op­ments mean pow­der is now milled more finely and con­trols oil more ef­fec­tively. Just ap­ply it spar­ingly, as pow­der can dull the skin’s nat­u­ral lu­mi­nes­cence. “Choose a su­per-fine translu­cent pow­der and ap­ply the light­est dust­ing to the T-zone and be­low the lower lip only,” ad­vises Lisa. Try: 7. L’Oréal Paris Nude Mag­ique BB Pow­der, $30. 8. Bobbi Brown Nude Fin­ish Il­lu­mi­nat­ing Pow­der, $105.

10 Wear­ing mas­cara on the lower lashes

A hotly con­tested is­sue in the make-up world, some artists say mas­cara on the lower lashes draws at­ten­tion to shad­owy ar­eas, par­tic­u­larly if it trans­fers. Oth­ers say it can cre­ate a bright-eyed look, and more sub­tle def­i­ni­tion than liner. Lisa ad­vises con­sid­er­ing how sparse lower lashes are. “If your bot­tom lashes have started to thin or are look­ing patchy, don’t draw at­ten­tion to them with mas­cara. Use a brown liner and/or eye­shadow to add def­i­ni­tion to the lower lash area or just keep it bare.”

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from New Zealand

© PressReader. All rights reserved.