Naturally lovely: our A-Z guide unravels this beauty boom

Going natural has never been so easy… or so confusing. With beauty counters displaying a proliferation of “free from” and environmentally friendly products, it’s hard to know where to start. Megan Bedford helps us understand what to look for and highlight

Long gone are the days when choosing a natural skin or make-up product meant sacrificing sophistication and effectiveness. The choices available now are plentiful and run the gamut from garage dwellers whipping up their own zinc oxide sunscreen, to huge multi-national beauty giants turning “free from” products into big business. Committing to conscious consumerism can be incredibly confusing, but small steps can have a big impact. The best part? The market is now reflecting those steps, resulting in wider choice and more accessibility. Creating products that are kind to the earth and to our bodies has become, to some extent, the new normal.

AAnimal testing While the term cruelty-free is one we’ve long been familiar with, the issue is still far from black and white. In New Zealand, testing on animals is still legal for consumer and medical research reasons, but back in 2015 the Government signed a bill banning testing for cosmetics purposes. An issue consumers may wish to consider, though, is the fact that if brands want to enter the lucrative Chinese market, they must submit their products to be tested in Government-owned labs there – which test on animals. As such, many animal lovers steer clear of major multinational corporations that also retail in China. Confusing things further, some local natural brands like Linden Leaves and Antipodes have managed to sell in a small capacity in China without compromising ethics, by selling online through free-trade zones, keeping stock offshore, and selling in duty-free outposts in China’s major cities.

BBee’s knees With nourishing, healing and antibacterial properties, honey is an obvious ingredient for natural skincare, but the multitude of products our small flying friends can contribute to has surprised us recently! Moisturisers, serums, balms, anti-acne and anti-ageing products containing honey, beeswax, propolis, royal jelly and even bee venom are becoming star players, and New Zealand is turning out some excellent products in the category. Try: Living Nature Bee Venom Mask, $9.90.

CCertifications There is no one label that covers all when looking for natural products. While it’s best practice to read up on ingredients and do your own research into a brand, not everyone has time for that. Some certification badges have respect, but it’s worth noting that their standards demand slightly varying minimum levels of what constitutes “natural”. Some to look for are:

BioGro: NZ’s leading certification for organic products, including food and beauty products, with different seals to signify categories like natural, organic and non-GMO.

Natrue: A widely respected international standard for natural cosmetics run by a non-profit organisation based in Brussels. BDIH Certified Natural

Cosmetics: A German trade association with worldwide recognition. BDIH has a strict list of parameters companies must adhere to, and they are checked up on every year.

Leaping Bunny: The only internationally recognised signifier that a company does not test on animals, although there are plenty of regional variants, some of which are not affiliated with any organisation.

DDetoxification A new buzzword used on products that claim to rid the skin of ageing microparticles of pollution, which are accumulated daily whether you live in a city CBD or not. The term also regularly appears on products containing charcoal – proven to be effective in soaking up oil and debris that lingers on the surface of skin. What “detoxification” really means is an effective deep clean.

EEdible or ingestible beauty Nourishing skin from the inside out is arguably one of the biggest beauty trends of the year. The theory that what you put in your body will be reflected on the outside is nothing new to kale-munchers, but the business of supplementation in order to target skin’s clarity, signs of ageing, acne and inflammation has grown rapidly recently. Ingredients like collagen, hyaluronic acid and high-quality plant extracts, normally found in expensive face products, have been encapsulated, or created in powder form, to ingest. Niche ingredients like acai, hemp and chia, as well as probiotics, are all hot property in the quest for evergreen beauty.

FFree from The label “free from” is now so popular on food, health and beauty items, research has shown shoppers look for labels like this even when there is little or no evidence that the product is safer, healthier or “greener”. Of greater value is the move to more transparent or informative labels, such as decoding scientific names – for example, ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

GGlow With microbeads now banished, given their detrimental environmental impact, attention has turned to an alternative form of exfoliation for the face. Gentle fruit (glycolic) and lactic acids are being used to encourage cell turnover, smooth skin and provide an undeniable, even, healthy glow. Use as a serum, or wipe soaked pads over skin after cleansing and before applying moisturiser.

HHair 2017 has been the year the clean, green movement turned its attention to hair products, meaning classic hair cleansing and smoothing ingredients like sulfates and silicone have been shunned by many new players. Heavy hitters like L’Oréal and Kérastase have also been removing these ingredients from some of their

product lines.

IIngredients

Consumers are increasingly informed and demanding more transparency from the ingredients in their cosmetics and skincare. While many “natural-leaning” brands clearly state each ingredient, larger players can rely on all-encompassing and scientific terms that mean little to the average person. Following a move from Wal-Mart, the world’s largest retailer, that suppliers must list all product ingredients, multinational bodycare players Unilever and P&G recently announced their commitment to displaying individual ingredients in fragrance composition for their wide range of products. They have also moved to decode other jargon in an ingredients breakdown for each product on their websites. Recent studies show while many women are moving to more chemical-free beauty products, fragrance is not one of the areas they generally consider. New

“Kale is good for your insides and beneficial topically too.”

Zealand’s Purity Fragrances has moved to address the issue, creating a unique all-natural, essential oil-based eau de toilette made from New Zealand spring water, an eco-certified essential oil concentrate base, an eco-certified preservative and natural plant dispersants. Try: Purity Fragrances Perfectly Me, 50ml, $129.

JJade rolling In the move away from extensive ingredients manipulated by science, more simplistic approaches are also being adopted. A throwback to an ancient Chinese method of toning and de-puffing the face, increasing circulation and releasing toxins, the use of a jade rolling tool to massage skin from the centre of the face outwards is being touted by many natural facialists and skincare brands for its youth-inducing benefits. Try: Jade roller, $30, from zen-zone.co.nz.

KKale The crunchy green is good for your insides, but applying it with a mix of other greens is apparently beneficial topically too. Try: Sukin Super Greens Nutrient Rich Facial Moisturiser, $14.

LLocal One of the most exciting elements of the explosion in natural products is how great New Zealanders are at making them. There are far too many to mention, but if you’re not familiar with the likes of Karen Murrell, Trilogy, Antipodes, Living Nature and Linden Leaves, we suggest you acquaint yourself! Try: Linden Leaves in Bloom Green Verbena Bath Bomb, $15 (for 4).

MMicrobeads Since the ocean-polluting plastic particles have finally been ousted (most products have already gone but the ban does not take full effect in NZ until May 2018), there has been innovation on natural replacements. Natural exfoliants include non-abrasive jojoba wax, rosehip seed powder, ground rice, bamboo, sea salt, oatmeal and coffee. Try: Trilogy Exfoliating Body Balm, $40.

NNatural origin This term is being used increasingly to market a product, and generally refers to the percentage of ingredients derived from a source that can be found within the environment and used with minimal interference from humans. In Kérastase’s Aura Botanica haircare range, which claims 96 per cent natural origin, the company states, “We consider ingredients to be of natural origin if they retain more than 50 per cent of their molecular structure after being processed from a natural source.”

OOrganic An unregulated term used to describe products created with ingredients that have been raised without the use of pesticides, sprays or genetic modification. The term

“certified organic” gives slightly more assurance, particularly if it has been certified by a respected authority. For this, companies must undergo a rigorous process auditing every step of the production chain, including things like the care and management of soil and the surrounding environment; products and techniques used to grow and manufacture ingredients; and the ability to trace every ingredient back to its origin. Try: Divine Woman Daily Renewal Lactic Gel Cleanser, $75

PPackaging Playing a big part in the ethics of natural beauty companies, packaging approaches range from recyclable, made from recycled materials, plant-based printing dyes, paper from sustainable forestry, all the way to completely compostable wrappers. New Zealand brand Ethique, makers of an extensive range of solid beauty bars including face serums, shampoos and body wash, has perfected the approach. Everything in their products, from ingredients to the wrapper, is biodegradable. According to the company, 50 million bottles of shampoo and conditioner are used in New Zealand every year and many of them end up in landfill, so the approach makes sense. Try: Ethique Damage Control Solid Shampoo Bar, $22.

QQuinoa Yes, it seems every trendy health food eventually gets investigated for external use too. Not surprisingly, the ridiculously good-for-you quinoa grain has beauty benefits. With a high percentage of

protein, it’s useful for hair, nails and skin too. Try: G&M Neurocosmedics Quinoa Lift & Hydrate Eye Cream, $99.

RRaw While the term “raw” is occasionally seen, the products using it will have undergone some

“Turmeric has become a star player.”

degree of processing. So, to us, going raw means using plants, fruits or vegetables in their natural state to provide beauty benefits. Think the Pinterest-mad trend of creating your own nourishing face masks from honey or avocado.

SSmall batch Beauty products made in small runs and with limited shelf life are flourishing, thanks to many people’s desire to shop local and move away from mass-produced items to hand-made products. Thanks to online marketing and retailing, home-based operations can start small and grow slowly as demand rises. Popular brand Tailor skincare started back in 2011 when founder Sara Quilter began mixing up batches of face masks using Bentonite clay in a Kenwood cake mixer in her father’s garden shed in suburban Taranaki. Try: Tailor Mini Kit, $49.

TTeeth Products to maintain the health and appearance of our chompers have become a talking point recently, after dispute over the safety of chemicals used by some household brands. The controversy offered a platform for natural plant-based brands, which have been around for a while and use ingredients like charcoal, manuka oil and sea salt, to step up to the plate. Try: Grin 100% Natural Whitening Toothpaste, $8.50, and charcoal-infused bamboo toothbrush, $4.

UUnder the sea Sea kelp has been slowly gaining prominence as an ingredient that helps nourish, so if you’re thinking about popping down to the beach and picking up some seaweed to pop on your skin, you might be onto something. In Korea, a hotbed of emerging beauty trends, sheet masks are now being produced solely from the green stuff. Try: Whamisa Organic Sea Kelp Hydro Gel Face Mask, $16, from hikoco.co.nz.

VVegan Driven by a resurgence in people becoming vegetarian, but also by the large number of people who believe that harming animals in the pursuit of beauty is unnecessary, products that don’t contain any ingredients or by-products derived from animals, including hair used in make-up brushes, are surging in availability and popularity. With fantastic appearance and performance, many equal or even exceed their more traditionally formulated counterparts. Some, like Inika, announce their vegan status, while for others, like DB Cosmetics, it’s only a side note to a more mainstream approach. But both are excellent performers in the category. Try: DB Cosmetics Moisturising Lipstick, $11.

WWater-free Returning to a solid state minimises water wastage and packaging, and concentrated forms generally last longer, so this is a sensible space for natural brands to inhabit. Recent releases include solid oil cleansers, shampoo and conditioners, sunscreen and a

return to bar soap over body wash. Try: Goodness Break-up Make-up Balm, $20.

YThe X factor Just because a product has green credentials doesn’t mean it has to appear basic or boring or have a simple formulation. Luxury natural skincare and cosmetics is a growing niche that includes advanced anti-ageing formulations, superior make-up textures and colours and premium packaging. Try: RMS Beauty Lip2Cheek colour in Demure, $57.

XYellow The colour of the powerful spice turmeric, which has become a star player in natural skincare products recently. It turns out its anti-inflammatory abilities are not just beneficial internally – according to skincare experts, it also has antiseptic, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties when applied topically too. Just don’t go applying the spice on its own – it

stains! Try: Clarins Double Serum, $170.

ZZen In the busy world we live in these days, stress and lack of sleep can be huge contributors to premature ageing. Hence we’re seeing a new focus on switching down a gear and learning to relax and take some time for yourself. Think aromatherapy, fragrant bath salts, massage oils, and natural facials. Try: Dr.Hauschka Moor Lavender Calming Bath Essence, $49. AWW