Beauty report:
It is potentially the least exciting element of any skincare routine, but by far the most effective. Yet do you really know which sunscreen to choose and how to use it? Megan Bedford has the answers.
what you need to know about using sunscreen safely
It’s a summer ritual. You head off down to the beach, loaded up with a bag, umbrella, a good magazine and some sunscreen. Once you’re set up on the sand, it’s time to slop on a half-hearted smear of sunscreen in the places you can reach, before hitting the waves. Several hours later – about the time you’re pouring a glass of wine and checking on the temperature of the barbecue – you bemoan the appearance of a distinctly pink glow somewhere on your body, and it’s not from the rosé. “But I did everything right!” you groan inwardly.
If you’re nodding in agreement, I’m not surprised – it’s a scene many of us know well. Despite all the information available, there are still sun-safety holes in the average daily routine of New Zealanders. When it comes to the effective use of sunscreen, it’s about what, when, where and how we apply – and re-apply – as well as the extra steps we can take to protect our skin from the sun’s harmful UV rays. The motivating factors are twofold. Firstly, there’s the very real and lethal risk of developing skin cancer as a result of unsafe sun exposure. Also compelling is the amount you spend on skincare each year to keep your skin looking and feeling good – because without added sun protection, you can consider it money down the drain.
There is still a lot of confusion around using sunscreen. Here we decode some of the biggest myths with help from the experts.
MYTH: Sunscreens are all pretty much the same.
FACT: While they may look similar, sunscreens are actually one of two different types.
“Sunscreen ingredients are divided into chemical absorbers or physical blockers,” says Dr Eleni Yiasemides, a consulting dermatologist for Neutrogena. “Chemical absorbers are compounds that absorb the UV radiation from the sun, whereas physical blockers contain ingredients that reflect the UV rays.”
Physical blockers are generally created with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, they often have
a whiter appearance on the skin, and are considered more tolerable for sensitive skin or young children. If you see a number of other ingredients listed, they are generally chemical absorbers. This type of sunscreen tends to be thinner, and it absorbs and spreads well, so is good for daily use, especially on the face.
Both types of sunscreen are widely available and provide good UVA and UVB protection. Sometimes a combination of types is used. MYTH: All sunscreens protect me from the damaging effects of the sun.
FACT: You need a product that’s labelled as broad spectrum, to ward off both UVA and UVB rays, as they do damage in different ways. “UVA and UVB are different wavelengths of radiation emitted by the sun,” explains Caroline Parker, Head of Education for Dermalogica in NZ. “UVB rays are a shorter wavelength and damage the more superficial layers of the skin and cause it to redden. They’re sometimes referred to as ‘burning rays’. UVA rays have a longer wavelength and penetrate deeper. They are sometimes called ageing rays, as it’s the cumulative damage from these rays that causes skin ageing. Both can cause skin cancers.” MYTH: SPF30 means I can stay in the sun for 30 minutes.
FACT: “SPF stands for Sun Protection
Factor and the corresponding number, when multiplied by your personal burn time, represents the length of time your skin is protected from burning when you are wearing the SPF,” says Caroline
Parker. “For example, if your skin normally starts to burn in 10 minutes, when you apply an SPF30 you should be able to withstand exposure to the sun for 10 x 30 = 300 minutes. However, we do recommend that you reapply your sunscreen every two hours if you are active, as it can rub off or sweat off easily.”
You need a product that’s labelled as broad spectrum, to ward off both UVA and UVB rays, as they do damage in different ways.
MYTH: You don’t need sunscreen if it’s cloudy or cold outside or if you’re spending the day inside.
FACT: Incidental sun damage has more impact than you think. In the time it takes to walk between your car and the house you are receiving UV rays, and they can also cause damage through windows, such as while driving. According to Stephen Di Marzo, Product Manager of La Roche-Posay skincare, UV rays can affect your skin even if you can’t see the sun. “UVA penetrates cloud cover and is present even during the winter months. Moreover, the effects of UVA last all day, regardless of whether the sun is out or not, and it penetrates through glass, accounting for 95 per cent of UV rays.” MYTH: SPF in my moisturiser or foundation is enough protection.
FACT: While the greasy feel of some sunscreens may have left you deferring to a foundation with a low SPF added, these products aren’t enough protection for your face. Instead, choose a very high SPF primer, which creates a beautiful base for make-up, or one of the new-generation fluid sunscreens that are absorbed easily. MYTH: SPF15 allows me to get a safe tan.
FACT: There is no such thing as a safe tan caused by the sun, according to the experts. Use a fake tanning product instead. MYTH: I need sun exposure to get vitamin D.
FACT: You only need a small amount and you should attain it in a safe form. “Vitamin D is incredibly important for your body’s health,” says Stephen Di Marzo. “You need about 15 minutes of UV a day to get your requirement; after this time your body stops producing vitamin D, so there is no need to expose your skin to risk beyond this limited time in the sun.” He says if you are ever concerned about not getting enough vitamin D, you can obtain it by increasing your intake of foods such as fish, cheese and milk. MYTH: I only need one blob of sunscreen for my whole body – I can spread it in.
FACT: There are differing explanations for how much you really need, but the consensus is: more than you think. Caroline Parker says a teaspoon is adequate for your face and neck – “don’t forget your ears” – while a brimming shot glass would hold the amount you should use for the rest of your body. “The amount you apply will dictate the amount of protection you get from the product, so if you apply an SPF30 but only apply a minimal amount of it (half the recommended amount, for instance) then you only have an SPF of 15 protecting your skin.”
Spray-on sunscreens are as effective as creams if they are applied correctly. “You need to use a lot of spray to ensure they achieve the coverage you require to be protected,” says Dr Yiasemides. “Hold the can 10-15cm away from the body and apply liberally, spraying slowly and evenly until the product has a visible shine on skin.” MYTH: One application lasts all day.
FACT: Screens should be applied 20 minutes before going outside and re-applied every two hours – more often if you’ve been swimming or sweating, regardless of the water-resistant claims some products display. If you don’t want to displace make-up or cover your hair parting, try a mineral powder designed to dust on over top. MYTH: Chemicals in sunscreen can be risky for your health.
FACT: “There is no evidence to suggest that sunscreen ingredients are harmful,” says Dr Yiasemides. “They’ve been widely tested and proven to be safe. Some people can be allergic or sensitive to particular ingredients. In general, physical blockers (zinc or titanium dioxide) are the least likely to cause allergies.” MYTH: The more expensive the sunscreen, the more reliable the protection:
FACT: “The quality of the sunscreen is dependent on its SPF and level of UVA and UVB protection,” says Dr Yiasemides. “The quality is not related to the cost of the product or whether it is sold in a fancy shop or at the local pharmacy. Good-quality products are often sold at the supermarket.” MYTH: It’s okay to use last year’s bottle. FACT: Ingredients in sunscreen have a limited shelf life and can become ineffective. Check the expiry date and toss out any that have been stored somewhere warm, like a car’s glove box.