A ROYAL TOUR
in Hungary and Austria
More than a century before Diana, Kate, Meghan and Mary graced the royal red carpet, the first true celebrity princess was arguably Empress Elisabeth of Austria (right). At just 16 years of age, Sisi, as she was affectionately known, was swept off her feet by Franz Joseph I, heir to the Habsburg monarchy’s Austro-Hungarian empire.
In April 1854, they married in a fairytale ceremony in Vienna and
Sisi immediately became one of the most powerful and most talked about women in the world. She was breathtakingly beautiful with a natural warmth and shyness which endeared her to the masses and earned her the moniker “The People’s Princess”.
The young Empress was a trailblazer; her exquisite fashion and elaborate hairstyles were copied by Viennese high society, and with every public appearance her popularity grew.
But, behind the palace walls she was desperately unhappy, battling bulimia and a broken heart due to an unfaithful husband. Sound familiar?
Tragically, like Diana, Sisi’s life was also cut short. She was assassinated almost 100 years to the day before Diana’s death. She was just 61, and her murder plunged the monarchy and her people into deep mourning.
The story of Sisi is enjoying a renaissance in Budapest as Hungarians capitalise on the popularity of today’s young royals. In death, their beloved Queen Sisi is fuelling a tourist boom. After years under Soviet occupation and communist rule, the Hungarians are reclaiming their royal roots with gusto and inviting visitors to Budapest to immerse themselves in all things Sisi.
Arguably the most majestic and authentic sovereign experience comes with APT’s exclusive tour of The
Royal Palace of Godollo, regarded as Sisi’s favourite palace. Godollo Palace was a coronation gift from the people of Hungary to Sisi and Franz Joseph I and the royal couple spent Easters and Christmases at the stunning baroque chateau. While smaller than the Habsburgs’ imposing 1000-room
palace Schonbrunn in Vienna, The Royal Palace of Godollo, which was built between 1735 and 1745, still oozes imperial elegance. Decorated in baroque and rococo styles, Godollo is a feast for the senses and has every opulent royal touch you could possibly hope for: luxurious velvet curtains and wallpapers in rich reds, blues and purples, gold leaf detailing in every corner, elaborate crystal chandeliers which drip from the hand-painted fresco ceilings, and priceless works of art.
Of course, there’s a grand ballroom, dining rooms for every occasion and you can take a sneak peek inside the Empress’ private reading room, where a scholar was employed to entertain
her with readings of her favourite poems. One wing of the U-shaped building houses the royal family’s chapel, which is still in use today and features the original artwork, chandeliers and altars. The second wing features a full-size theatre, where local artists would perform for the royal court, and an indoor riding arena and stables, where Sisi would practise riding her beloved horses.
During Franz Joseph and Sisi’s reign, Godollo Palace had nine separate kitchens operating every day, offering a smorgasbord of 14 different dishes for the king and queen’s breakfast alone. A staggering 950 servants and 15 butlers were on hand at Godollo to cater to the royal
family’s every desire, and each season, more than 500 carriages would transport the furnishings of the royal household, including cutlery, porcelain, table settings and even beds, from the Imperial Palace in Vienna to Godollo to ensure the royal couple were surrounded by the comforts of home. It is a stunning example of the excess, extravagance and opulence of mid-19th century royal rule.
For lovers of all things royal, a tour of Godollo offers a rare behind-thescenes look at court life, but equally lovers of art, culture and history will be captivated by the way it represents recent modern European history too.
Long after the Habsburgs had passed, the palace was taken over by the Soviet Army, which used it as a base during World War II. They removed every trace of royal embellishment. They stripped the walls of the expensive wallpapers and painted over original artworks in a dour shade of gun-metal grey; with the flick of a brush, the palace became a colourless, cold communist fortress.
When war ended, Godollo was used as a nursing home and infirmary, but eventually after the fall of communism in 1989, it was returned to the people, who are enthusiastically and faithfully restoring it back to its glory days. It’s a work in progress and the story of how the palace is being reclaimed is faithfully shared as part of the exhibition.
During peak season (May to September), APT offers visits to Godollo Palace. The royal experience begins on board the majestic carriages of the Grand Empress steam train, which travels from Budapest to Godollo on the outskirts of the city. With a glass of Champagne on arrival and delicate petit-fours to enjoy, guests get to soak up the pretty green countryside of Hungary before arriving at the reclaimed and refurbished royal waiting room at Godollo station, the very pavilion used by Empress Elisabeth. Upon our arrival at Godollo Palace, we are greeted by striking ceremonial Hussars and trumpeters who herald visiting guests from the royal balcony.
Godollo Palace is the perfect opening chapter to the epic drama of the House of Habsburg that unfolds ripple by ripple all the way along the Danube river cruise. After touring Godollo, a trip to Schonbrunn Palace in Vienna, the next piece of the Sisi jigsaw puzzle, is a must. Schonbrunn was the Habsburgs’ summer residence and the palace where the Empress Elisabeth formally began royal life. It is so historically significant that it’s now protected as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. More than one million people make the pilgrimage to Schonbrunn every year, and although busy, it is well worth the effort. The decadent palace interior is breathtaking; so too is the Great Parterre, an elaborate baroque garden that was laid out around the grounds of Schonbrunn in the 1700s and still thrives today.
The final chapter in the story of
Sisi is a visit to the Imperial Palace, The Hofburg, in downtown Vienna. Here, you can tour the monarch’s apartments and wander through the Sisi Museum, where an extraordinary collection of Sisi’s personal belongings, including her stunning gowns, crown jewels, signature star diamond hair-pins that she became famous for wearing to pin up her floor-length hair, her shoes, gloves and other personal effects are on display.
Also at The Hofburg is the Imperial Silver Collection, the royal tableware that Sisi and her mother-in-law, Archduchess Sophie, commissioned for personal use and for special occasions. Among 7000 exquisite pieces on display are the imperial table settings, gold candelabras and serving dishes, monogrammed linens, silver and gold tableware, intricate porcelain dinner sets and kitchenware and decor used by the royal household. More than a century on, visitors are flocking to see all things Sisi, proving she is the jewel in Europe’s crown once again.
Icing on the cake
While in Budapest don’t miss the chance to enjoy coffee and cake at Franz Joseph and Sisi’s favourite patisserie, Gerbeaud, located in the heart of Budapest’s Vorosmarty Square. The 160-year-old café with brocade walls and polished marble counter tops was built as a pavilion rest house for the royal couple and is just a short walk from the Danube, the Opera House and the magnificent Parliament House buildings. Don’t leave without trying the signature dessert, Hungarian Gerbeaud cake, a rich sponge layered with chocolate buttercream and hazelnut meringue.