HOT in the city
There’s something for everyone in Wellington. Sara Bunny lists the must-do experiences for a summer getaway
What’s compact, cultured and constantly evolving? Wellington, of course. Whether you’re into art, adventure, looking for familyfriendly fun or on the hunt for your new favourite eatery, it’s always a great spot for a mini-break or a longer stay.
Ahead of the upcoming Wellington Anniversary Day (January 24), here are some top picks for what to see and do on your next visit to the capital city.
Feast the eyes
It’s hard not to be mesmerised by the dazzling lineup of three-metre-high artworks by Hilma af Klint. The Swedish artist kept her work under wraps for decades, even giving strict instructions that nothing was to go on public display until 20 years after her death. Now that the self-imposed embargo is over, the art world is awestruck by her pioneering abstract paintings. City Gallery Wellington is the only place in New Zealand to see them yourself, and the acclaimed Hilma af Klint: The Secret Paintings is on until March 27.
Art fans should also check out Rita Angus: New Zealand Modernist. This extensive exhibition celebrating one of the country’s most iconic artists is on at Te Papa until April 25, and entry is free.
Find your sanctuary
Just a 20-minute boat ride from Paraparaumu Beach lies Ka¯ piti Island, one of the country’s oldest nature reserves. Here, you can take a day trip to explore the peaceful surrounds, or settle in for the night in a glamping tent or cabin. Either way, book yourself into a tour to learn about the island’s rich place in Ma¯ ori history, and to find out how to spot a range of native birds living their best predator-free life. If you’re staying after dark, be sure to take part in the night tour, where you just might see one of the island’s 1400 little spotted kiwi snuffling past on the hunt for their supper. Book your place through Ka¯ piti Island Nature Tours or
Ka¯ piti Island Eco Tours.
Mission to Mars
With futuristic space stations, fancy gaming wizardry and special effects galore, you won’t hear an “I’m bored” from the kids at Te Papa Museum’s newest interactive show. Destination Mars is a totally immersive experience, complete with your own console to help the crew save the planet from a deadly solar flare. Developed by a team of top gamers, the show is part of the Aotearoa New Zealand Festival of the Arts, and it’s on until March 20.
Slumber in style
With sumptuous rich furnishings, jewel-toned walls and swish decor, Naumi Studio Hotel Wellington is an Instagrammer’s dream. Beyond the striking ground floor, it also boasts more than 100 super-stylish rooms, including an elaborate executive suite decked out in botanical prints. You’ll feel like a film star as you sip a martini at the sultry hotel bar, Lola Rouge, and although the hotel is located right in the heart of the action on bustling Cuba St, it’s a peaceful oasis from the moment you step inside.
Get on yer bike Stay chic in the city
With 18 designer suites, the Intrepid Hotel is all about modern chic mixed with heritage charm, and some hipster vibes chucked in for good measure. Sitting pretty on Ghuznee St, in what used to be a warehouse and offices for Cadbury chocolate, this easy-tofind spot is a great place to take a breather after a day’s exploring. The in-house bar downstairs, The Puffin, is well-known around Welly for its stellar selection of organic, minimal intervention wines.
Cyclists come from far and wide to explore the Remutaka Cycle Trail, named as one of New
Zealand’s great rides. The track starts at Petone Foreshore, and winds its way through riverside parkland to Maymorn, at the bottom of the Remutaka Hill. From there, follow the historic railway route that was once the key connection between Wellington and the Wairarapa, passing through restored railway tunnels and native bush to the summit. After a downhill glide along the historic Fell Locomotive Incline, the next section continues through to Ocean Beach at Wairarapa’s southern coast. The last leg takes in the rest of the wildly beautiful south coast, where the expansive views extend all the way to the Kaiko¯ ura Ranges on a clear day.
Allow a few days to tackle the whole track, or pick a section for a shorter ride. The first part of the trail is gentle enough for family groups or beginner pedal pushers. If you prefer to be guided by the experts, Martinborough’s Green Jersey Explorer Tours offers a range of Remutaka Cycle Trail excursions, as well as bike hire.
Devour some of Welly’s best eats
With more restaurants and cafes than you can shake a stick at, you’ll never go hungry in the capital.
In the mood for seafood? Ortega Fish Shack on Majoribanks St is a favourite haunt, while the everbustling Shepherd in Hannah’s Laneway is another magnet for discerning foodies. If cosy and intimate is more your jam, Rita is a special wee spot, and Hiakai’s unique degustation menu puts a modern take on traditional Ma¯ ori ingredients. For a glass or two of prosecco and delicious Italian treats, don’t go past Ombra on Cuba St, or head to Highwater Eatery for stylish vibes and classy, seasonal bites. And when it comes to the very best plant-based fare, divine Hillside Kitchen is in a category all of its own.
Hang out with the birds
Zealandia might be just minutes from the central city hubbub, but its fern-covered pathways and soothing green surrounds make you feel like you’ve travelled hours into the country. As the world’s first fully-fenced ecosanctuary, everything thrives in this pristine patch, from prehistoric tuataras and slightly scary-looking giant we¯ ta¯ s, to the lush native plants at every turn.
Zealandia is home to more than 40 species of them, including many that are rare or endangered. The feathered roll-call includes brightly coloured ka¯ ka¯ riki, rambunctious ka¯ ka¯ , plodding takahe¯ and tiny titipounamu, also known as rifleman. Explore at your own pace while listening to the birdsong, or book in for a daytime or evening tour for insights from one of the conservation experts.
Take a grape escape
Venture over the Remutaka Hill to Martinborough, Wellington region’s own boutique wine village. Check out the shops and cafes in the charming town centre and, if you fancy cruising the vineyards on a bike or e-bike, hire a set of wheels from Green Jersey Explorer Tours.
As a vino lover’s paradise, tiny Martinborough punches well above its weight with a surprisingly big range of top-class boutique wineries. Most of the cellar doors are located near each other, making it easy to sip and sample your way around them on foot or by pedal power. Favourite picks include Moy Hall, Palliser Estate, Colombo,
Poppies, and Cambridge Road for organic and biodynamic drops.
Kick back or get adventurous
Forget sprawling city blocks and never-ending motorways, Wellington is made for wandering, and getting lost in the CBD is pretty much impossible. Whether you’re looking for designer finds on Lambton Quay, getting among the creative vibe on Cuba St or ambling along the waterfront, it’s an easy place for chilling out and exploring.
Keen to hit the water? Head to Fergs at Queen’s Wharf and hire a kayak for a harbour adventure. If boating is more your style, get a group together and book a tour aboard the Megisti catamaran. Heading out from Queen’s Wharf, you’ll cruise across the harbour towards Matiu/somes Island and enjoy some of the best views of the city looking back to shore. Megisti’s super-relaxed resident dalmatian dog is familiar to many locals, and he also serves as the boat’s official dolphin, seal and orca whale spotter.
Back on dry land, there are plenty of great local trails for walkers, too. The scenic Southern Walkway starts at Oriental Parade and weaves along the Town Belt to Island Bay, with some topnotch views along the way. For adventurers not afraid to work up a sweat, the Te Araroa Escarpment Track is spectacular. Suited to more experienced walkers, the 10km trail traverses two swing bridges, navigates narrow ridgelines and winds 220 metres above sea level, offering stunning views of the Ka¯ piti coastline.