WINE O’CLOCK 6 of the best
A down-to-earth look at some interesting local and international releases that have caught Mac Macpherson’s attention or proven themselves worthy of further discussion.
Black Cottage Sauvignon Blanc 2022 — Marlborough Available from $16.99
This is the first of the 2022 Marlborough sauvignons I have tried. After a string of excellent vintages, 2022 was a challenging year for our nation’s most important varietal and no doubt there will be some lesser wines from those growers who cropped too high or were caught by the heavy rains that fell soon after harvest began. On the flip side, those that managed their crop levels well and picked before the rain are sure to offer the market some excellent wines and this 2022 sauvignon from Black Cottage is one of them. Produced by the very talented Dave Clouston, it is as clean as a whistle and bursting with all those vibrant tropical flavours that sauvignon fans worldwide adore. I noted some tangy blackcurrant notes and a touch of salinity on the palate. Most buyers will enjoy it in its youth to maximise those fresh Marlborough acids, but I’ll be keen to revisit in a year or two when the wine softens and becomes even more harmonious.
Trinity Hill Pinot Gris 2021 — Hawke’s Bay Available from $18.99
I have long thought that the white label series from Trinity Hill offers the wine buying public tremendous value. They are typically very well made, smart wines that are easy to enjoy but serious enough to impress, should you be interested in looking more closely at them. Of the current range, I am a big fan of the 2020 Syrah and no one could argue that this excellent 2021 Pinot Gris out performs its price point. Look for a gentle nose of spicy pear and honeysuckle and a creamy, lightly textural, dry palate that shows more pear and citrus characters with soft acid structure keeping the conversation fresh and alive. There’s real value to be had here, and there are plenty of far more expensive pinot gris options in the market that could take a leaf out of Trinity Hill’s play book. Seek it out.
Mount Brown Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2020 — North Canterbury Available from $26.99
There is something very special about the tiny growing region of Waipara in North Canterbury. Wines that emanate from there have a richness and juiciness all their own, and this 2020 chardonnay from Mount Brown is a prime example of the opulence that can be harnessed when all the stars align. This is the first Grand
Reserve Chardonnay that Mount Brown has released. It’s an auspicious debut from a winery best known for aromatic whites and weighty pinot noirs, and I was excited to put this wine through its paces. I certainly wasn’t disappointed. Some struck match notes add a modern, reductive not to a nose that is laden with stone fruits, citrus, buttered popcorn and toasty oak spice. The palate is full-bodied and redolent with cashew and lemon brulee flavours. The finish is very long and satisfying with lingering, creamy acidity completing what was a very impressive glass of chardonnay. The Grand Reserve 2020 is already harmonious and drinking well but tuck some away over the coming 5+ years to release further magic.
Neck of the Woods Pinot Noir 2019 — Central Otago Available from $31.99
Vinted from Bendigo fruit, this
2019 offering from Neck of the Woods shows the textbook mineral notes and fresh acidity that that are the hallmarks of this important Central Otago sub-region. On the nose there are an array of fruits in the cherry and redcurrant spectrum, with some herbal / wild thyme elements adding another layer of complexity. The palate flows silkily in the mouth. It is more fulsome and broader than the nose suggests, with wood spice and some gamey characters adding further interest. This finish is long with good tannin structure and a line of soft acidity is matched with more toasty oak notes. Three years on from harvest, this Bendigo wine is entering its ideal drinking window and is already looking supple and balanced. Delicious wine from a small producer.
Patria Chica Tempranillo Grenache 2020 — Spain Available from $23.99
I’d heard from my wine trade friends around New Zealand that this was something to look out for, and I knew as soon as I smelt this wine that Patria Chica was going to deliver the goods. It’s a very fragrant wine with layer after layer of red and black fruits with spicy oak, Bovril, and some sweet floral notes in support. On the palate it’s all about those dark red tempranillo fruits (60%) with the glossy grenache component (26%) bringing plush texture and slippery mouth feel into play. It’s a big, generous style that crams every inch of your palate with the trademark flavours of Spain. The finish is nicely rounded with soft, integrated tannins and there is enough fresh acidity to counter those exuberant grenache fruits. Match Patria Chica with a chunky drinks platter or your favourite paella. It comes very highly recommended.
Knappstein Clare Valley Shiraz 2019 — Australia Available from $24.99
Australia’s Clare Valley may be best known for its finely structured, limey rieslings, but you would be foolish to overlook the other guns in their arsenal — including this excellent 2019 Knappstein Shiraz. Dark and plummy with licorice / anise and some lavender notes on the nose, it shows a palate chock-full of black fruits with hints of tapenade and white-pepper bringing up the rear. It’s a style that sits well with me. The hot days and cool nights of the Clare Valley growing season brings a deep savoury character to their red wines that I really like. I find the hotter Barossa style can be a bit too overblown for my tastes, and while this ‘dialled-back’ Clare Valley approach is fulsome by red wine standards, its understated persona lets you discover the beauty of the wine as you work your way into the bottle.