Birthplace of bures
Mike Yardley relaxes in Shangri-la Fijian Resort & Spa Yanuca Island
FLEEING THE WITHERING CLUTCHES of winter for the balmy embrace of Bula time, I ventured to the storied Coral Coast of Viti Levu, the time-honoured cradle of Fijian tourism. And birthplace of bures!
My illustrious base was the Shangri-la Fijian Resort & Spa Yanuca Island, which is celebrating its 55th anniversary this year. Just 50 minutes drive from Nadi Airport, not only is this 30-hectare resort Fiji’s biggest single hotel, but it employs more than 700 people. Just prior to Covid, the landmark resort underwent a $NZ70 million tip to toe makeover. Needless to say, the property looks absolutely resplendent.
More than a quarter of the island has been freshly dedicated to the Reef Wing, a brand-new adults-only enclave, boasting tranquil and secluded accommodations, adults-only dining options and a magnificent infinity pool.
I opted for the Yanuca Lagoon wing of accommodation, which adjoins many of the resort’s water-based activities, overlooking that fabulous fish-filled lagoon. Despite being in the family-friendly precinct, my Yanuca Lagoon Bure felt isolated from the throngs and serenely blissed-out.
It’s the sense of space that first stirs the senses as I admired the artful design features of my traditional Fijian beach bungalow. Stepping out onto the deck, the lagoon lapped at my feet like a lullaby.
But the biggest transformation to the resort has undeniably been focused on raising the culinary bar, because the profusion of on-site dining experiences is exceptionally impressive.
More than 75 per cent of all meat and fresh produce, including seafood, is now sourced locally. Takali Asian Kitchen is the new fusion restaurant, perched above the reef and serving up drool-worthy dishes, from spicy dumplings to sizzling seafood curries.
I highly recommend the Singapore style Chilli Crab, crafted from Fiji mud crabs cooked in a savoury tomato chilli sauce and served with mantou buns.
Golden Cowrie Coastal Italian delivers supreme Mediterranean-style dining in Fiji. Tuck into the Bombolotti pasta with prawn mousse, prawns, black truffle, pistachios & almonds.
Water-lovers rejoice. The resort lays it on thick with aquatic adventure options, from jet ski safaris to Natadola Beach and Sunset Cruises to the enormous inflatable water park in the lagoon.
How could you possibly say no to some personal body panel-beating at CHI, The Spa? My 60-minute treatment was a traditional Fijian Bobo massage, firmly administered, using a rich coconut oil blend. I felt 10 years younger.
It may sound like a Fijian cliche´ , but what really stole my heart about the resort are its people, because it’s generously staffed with the most ebullient, big-hearted, attentive and personable hospitality pros you could imagine.
■ www.shangri-la.com
Definitely take a ride with Ecotrax, located right next door to the resort on the Coral Coast.
Launched four years ago, a couple of Cromwell expats, Howie and Mandy de Vries are the powerhouse behind this riveting eco-venture, which has repurposed a retired sugar cane train railway line for a blissful ride through the villages, forest and lonely coastline. Ingeniously reviving the 19th century velocipede, you are riding on rail-mounted bicycles, with electricassisted batteries.
Your adventure starts in a century-old locomotive shed where our infectiously vivacious hosts, Britney and Dolly, get us ride-ready. Configured in pairs, before we know it, we’re off on our velocipedes clickety-clacking down the tack, purring across open fields, edging deserted beaches, through rock cuttings, across rickety old river bridges and enrobed in tropical forest.
There is one particular section where the long, low-slung canopy forms a wondrous “Tunnel of Love”.
A frisson of pure joy takes hold when a village comes into view, like Malomalo, with friendly villagers and excitedly waving children leaping to their feet to greet us with their flashing smiles and ebullient bulas, as we pedal by.
The line takes us to stunningly serene Vunabua Beach, a pristine sweep of sugarwhite sand, limpidly caressed by an iridescent lagoon. A paddle here is compulsive, backed by rocky coral outcrops festooned in lush foliage. A small herd of horses were grazing on the coastline, wrapped in gazillion-dollar views. Only in Fiji.
■ www.ecotrax.com.fj
I tripped to Fiji with Fiji Airways, who fly to Nadi from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch. Enjoy 15 minutes free text plans, while affordable Wi-fi plans are also available. Plus enjoy a generous economy class baggage allowance of 30kg. Fiji Airways is also offering great-value exclusive package holidays.
■ www.fijiairways.com