Greatest holidays
clams or chickpeas with spinach (garbanzos con espinacas). They are always made in-house and presented in mouth-watering displays.the complementary tapas or pinchos provided with your drink are usually moreish salty snacks served to encourage more drinking; the more sophisticated larger tapas dishes known as racions are added to your bill and refreshingly good value.
In Seville, home of the magnificent Alcazar palace, there is no shortage of tapas bars sporting hanging hams and attractive, locally-made ceramic tiles in the former Gypsy quarter, Triana. Make a pilgrimage to Bar El Riconcillo on Gerona, which claims to have invented the concept of tapas, then head up to Carmona on a spur of the Alcores Hills, above the city, for stunning views at sunset and evening tapas in Plaza San Pedro.
Tapas in the sherry capital of Jerez de la Frontier are accompanied by chilled glasses of delicate dry fino; Bar Juanito off Plaza del Arenal, has a menu of 52, and artichokes are among its specialties.
Down on the Atlantic coast in Cadiz, wall-towall tapas bars specialising in super-fresh seafood line C Zorilla; try La Gaditana for the best selection at excellent value.
Inland, past the stunning white village of Arcos de la Frontera, Ronda sits dramatically astride the deep El Tajo Gorge in the Serrania de Ronda mountains. Plaza del Socorro is packed with tapas bars; El Lechuguita at Remedios 35 is famous for its fried calamari and vegetarian options.
After touring the mesmerising multi-arched interior of Cordoba’s Byzantine La Mezquita mosque, order the wonderful salmorejo cold soup with boiled egg or the pesto vegetables with fried egg at Taberna San Miguel in Plaza San Miguel.
Your final stop is Granada, high in the Sierra Nevada mountains and home of the mighty Alhambra palace. Los Diamantes at 28 Navas serves superlative gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimps), and pulpo gallego (spicy octopus).
Reina Monica at 20 Panaderos offers complimentary Arabic tapas (three with each drink) and serves a generous tapas buffet of Andalucia’s finest culinary treats. spain.info
5 THE ULTIMATE CITY BREAK… IN VENICE
By Anne Hanley
Pick a tower — the campanile in St Mark’s Square will do, or the one on the island of San Giorgio Maggiore — and make your way to the top. To the east, thin strips of land protect the fragile lagoon from the waters of the Adriatic; to the north, the peaks of the Dolomites — snow-capped in winter, fading into heat haze in summer — heave into view. And at your feet, the world’s most improbable city is laid out, glimmering. Venice has always been the stuff of dreams. For holiday-starved visitors, hungry for difference, it’s a mesmerising place in which to rediscover the delights of travel.
Having revelled in La Serenissima from a great height, it’s time to savour her at ground level. You’ll want to (re)visit the famous landmarks of course. St Mark’s Basilica might seem rather too obvious a destination, but think again: those acres of glistening golden mosaics are heartstoppingly splendid. If you find yourself wondering how many works by grand masters you can stomach the moment you spread your travelling wings again, visit the Accademia Gallery; you might find that the answer is a whole marvellous, dazzling gallery full.
Between one peerless sight and another, be aware that one of Venice’s greatest joys is simply walking. The colours, the reflections, the echoes, the churches along the way in which any shadowy side-altar could harbour an exquisite masterpiece — these are the things that make this watery wonder simultaneously the simplest and the most sophisticated of city breaks. As you proceed, you could make a restaurant your goal. Famous for its uninspiring tourist traps, Venice also harbours some real gems. Splash out on the ever-changing fishy fare at Osteria alle Testiere, a gourmet’s delight you’ll need to book well ahead: the secret is out. Or go for Michelin-starred Local, where Venetian classics blend with subtle exotic touches. You’ve been aloft, you’ve pounded pavements, all that remains is to take to the water. A gondola ride comes with a hefty price tag (¤80/$133 for 30 minutes) and, for some tastes, is a trifle cheesy, but don’t be too put off: a fish-eye view of the city’s crumbling palazzi along quieter waterways is memorable.
Not convinced? There are alternatives. Venice’s vaporetti waterbuses are a means of getting from A to B, certainly, but they can also be an attraction in themselves, especially if you climb aboard at quieter moments and grab an outside seat. The 4 and 5 lines circumnavigate the city centre, passing along the wide Giudecca canal and out into the northern lagoon, where the dramatic cemetery island of San Michele rises into view. Line 12 plies across the wide lagoon to the smaller islands of Murano, Burano, and impossibly atmospheric Torcello, with its few fascinating reminders of a once-thriving community. A threeday vaporetto pass (¤40/$66) makes it easy to hop on and off the boat wherever you spot something too fascinating to miss.
There are eating options, too, at the end of a watery ride. La Palanca, by the vaporetto stop of the same name on Giudecca island, is a local bar with excellent food (lunch only) and the best cityencompassing view from its quayside tables. For greater sophistication, Venissa, on the island of Mazzorbo, offers Michelin-starred treats in a sprawling walled garden.
For a return to travelling, the perfect accommodation is a must. Recently restored, the St Regis (marriott.com; doubles from around ¤700/$1172 per night) offers a lighter, airier take on traditional luxury, especially if you splash out on a Grand Canal-facing room.
What the Hotel Flora (hotelflora.it; from ¤160/$268) lacks in panorama it makes up for in its leafy garden and homely atmosphere. For a quieter option, head to Burano, where Casaburano’s (casaburano.it; from around ¤140/$235) suites are designer-sleek. visititaly.eu/veneto